
Chef Dean
Bacon Egg and Cheese on a Roll
The iconic New York bodega breakfast: shattering-crisp bacon, a golden-yolked fried egg, and molten American cheese tucked into a soft kaiser roll. This is the sandwich that built a city.
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Springfield, Illinois's legendary open-faced monument to American excess: buttery toast, a seared beef patty, crispy hand-cut fries, and a river of sharp, beer-spiked cheese sauce cascading over everything.
The Horseshoe was born in 1928 at the Leland Hotel in Springfield, Illinois, and it has never left its hometown. Chef Joe Schweska created it for the lunch crowd, naming it for the horseshoe shape of the original ham steak, with the fries representing nails and the sizzling platter standing in for the anvil. Whether that story is entirely true matters less than the sandwich itself.
This is not health food. This is not refined dining. This is a towering edifice of American appetite that laughs at portion control. The Horseshoe represents everything I love about regional American cooking: a dish born of local pride, perfected through generations of tweaking, and stubbornly resistant to leaving its place of origin.
The cheese sauce makes or breaks the experience. It descends from Welsh rarebit, that British pub classic of melted cheese thinned with ale. Springfield cooks adapted it with American cheese for smoothness and a heavier hand with the cayenne. The sauce should pour like lava and taste sharp enough to cut through the richness of everything beneath it. Too thick and it clumps on the fries. Too thin and it runs off the plate. When you get it right, every forkful delivers the complete experience.
Quantity
4 thick slices (3/4-inch thick)
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
formed into 4 patties
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
cut into 1/4-inch fries
Quantity
as needed
Quantity
4 tablespoons
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
1 cup
warmed
Quantity
1 cup
at room temperature
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 pound (about 4 cups)
grated
Quantity
4 ounces
chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Texas toast or brioche bread | 4 thick slices (3/4-inch thick) |
| softened butter for toast | 2 tablespoons |
| ground beef chuck (80/20)formed into 4 patties | 1 1/2 pounds |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| russet potatoescut into 1/4-inch fries | 1 1/2 pounds |
| vegetable oil for frying | as needed |
| unsalted butter | 4 tablespoons |
| all-purpose flour | 1/4 cup |
| whole milkwarmed | 1 cup |
| pale lager beerat room temperature | 1 cup |
| Worcestershire sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| dry mustard powder | 1 teaspoon |
| cayenne pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| sharp cheddar cheesegrated | 1 pound (about 4 cups) |
| American cheesechopped | 4 ounces |
Slice your potatoes into quarter-inch sticks and submerge them in cold water for at least thirty minutes. This draws out excess starch, which is essential for achieving crispness. Drain thoroughly and spread on clean kitchen towels, patting until bone dry. Wet potatoes spatter dangerously and steam instead of fry.
Heat three inches of vegetable oil in a heavy pot or Dutch oven to 325°F. Working in batches to avoid crowding, fry the potatoes for four to five minutes until cooked through but pale, with no color to speak of. Transfer to a wire rack set over a sheet pan. This first fry cooks the interior. Let the fries rest at least fifteen minutes while you prepare other components.
Melt four tablespoons butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. When the foam subsides, whisk in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for two minutes. The raw flour smell should disappear, replaced by something faintly nutty. Do not let it brown.
Pour in the warm milk in a slow stream, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. Once smooth, add the beer gradually, continuing to whisk. The sauce will bubble and protest. Keep whisking. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for three minutes until thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon.
Remove from heat. Stir in the Worcestershire, mustard powder, and cayenne. Add the cheddar and American cheese a handful at a time, stirring until each addition melts completely before adding more. The American cheese contributes emulsifying salts that keep the sauce smooth and pourable. Season with salt. Cover and set aside.
Season your beef patties generously with salt and pepper on both sides. Heat a cast iron skillet over high heat until it just begins to smoke. Add the patties and press down firmly once to ensure full contact with the pan. Cook four minutes without moving, then flip and cook another three to four minutes for medium. The crust should be deeply browned, almost charred in spots. Rest on a cutting board.
Butter both sides of each bread slice. In the same skillet used for the patties (wipe out excess grease but leave the fond), toast the bread over medium heat until golden on both sides, about two minutes per side. The bread absorbs some of the beef flavor left in the pan. This is not an accident.
Raise your oil temperature to 375°F. Fry the blanched potatoes in batches for two to three minutes until deeply golden and crisp. They should shatter slightly when you bite through. Season immediately with salt while the oil is still clinging to them. Keep warm in a low oven.
Place one slice of toasted bread on each plate. Top with a beef patty. Pile a generous mound of hot fries over and around the meat, building height. Reheat your cheese sauce gently if needed, thinning with a splash of warm milk if it has thickened. Ladle the sauce generously over everything, letting it cascade down the sides and pool on the plate. Serve immediately with knife and fork.
1 serving (about 480g)
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