Spitzbuben (Jam Window Cookies)

In my grandmother Eva's kitchen in Kent, the Christmas baking started in late November and didn't stop until every tin was full. Gretel would arrive with her notebook and a critical eye, and the two of them would work through the Weihnachtsbäckerei like a small, determined production line. Vanillekipferl first, then Linzer Augen, then Spitzbuben. I got the cutouts.

Spitzbuben means "cheeky rascals," which is exactly what they look like: two rounds of fine, nutty shortbread pressed together with a bright smear of jam, the top cookie cut with a little window so the filling glows through like stained glass. Redcurrant jam turns them ruby. Apricot makes them amber. Gretel always said the color matters as much as the taste at Christmastime, and she was right. A plate of Spitzbuben catches the light and makes people reach for one before they've taken off their coat.

The dough is a Linzer dough, rich with ground almonds and cold butter, scented with lemon zest and a generous shake of Vanillezucker. It handles like marzipan once it's chilled, rolls cleanly, and cuts without fuss. The only real technique is patience: chill the dough properly, roll it thin, and let the jam set before you stack them. Every child in Austria has made these. Every grandmother has opinions about which jam belongs inside. The beauty of Spitzbuben is that they're simple enough for small hands but beautiful enough for the best Konditorei window in Salzburg.