Spinach Artichoke Gratin

The spinach artichoke combination has become so ubiquitous at American gatherings that we've forgotten to treat it with respect. Most versions drown in mayonnaise or emerge from the oven as gray, soupy affairs better suited for hiding than celebrating. This gratin reclaims the dignity of both vegetables.

I first encountered the pairing not at some chain restaurant but in a Roman trattoria where the cook sautéed both with nothing more than garlic, olive oil, and a shower of Pecorino. Simple. Honest. The flavors actually tasted like something. That memory guided this recipe, though I've adapted it for the American table where we want our gratins rich, bubbly, and capable of feeding a crowd.

The technique matters here. Squeeze your spinach aggressively. Moisture is the enemy of a proper gratin. The artichoke hearts should be quartered and patted dry before they meet the cream. What you're building is a dish with structure, not a dip with pretensions. Though I won't judge you for dragging crusty bread through the leftovers.

For Easter and spring gatherings, this gratin sits beautifully at room temperature for the better part of an hour, making it ideal for buffet service. Assemble it the night before if you like. The flavors only improve.