
Chef Isabel
Aguaillo de la Sierra de Cadiz
Aguaillo is from the Sierra de Cadiz: cold water, stale bread, garlic, oil and vinegar, closer to a field drink than a bowl of soup, and sharp enough to wake you in the heat.
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Sopes Mallorquines are Mallorca's dry soup: cabbage, garden vegetables, olive oil, and paper-thin pa moreno that drinks the broth until the dish is eaten with a fork, not a spoon.
Sopes Mallorquines belong to Mallorca, and the name fools people at first. This is a soup only in the old sense: vegetables cooked down with enough broth to soften them, then laid over thin slices of dry brown pa moreno until the bread drinks almost everything. You eat it with a fork. If it swims, you've made something else.
The bread is what decides the dish. It must be dry, thin, and sturdy enough to soften without turning to paste. In Mallorca those slices are called sopes, cut from unsalted brown country bread, and they sit at the bottom of the greixonera, the earthenware dish, waiting for the cabbage, tomato, garlic, parsley, and market vegetables to do their work above them.
If you can't find pa moreno, use a dense wholemeal country loaf, sliced as thin as you can and dried overnight. A soft sandwich loaf will collapse, and I won't pretend otherwise. Keep the broth measured, add only enough for the bread to drink, and let it rest covered before serving. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Sopes Mallorquines come from the rural kitchen of Mallorca, where old bread was not a leftover to throw away but the base of a meal. The dish changes with the island's market garden: cabbage and cauliflower in cooler months, artichokes, peas, or tender greens when they are good. Its dry finish is part of its identity, tied to the thin slices of pa moreno that give the dish its name and make it closer to a bread-and-vegetable casserole than a bowl of broth.
Quantity
250g
sliced very thin
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
1
finely chopped
Quantity
4
white and green parts sliced
Quantity
4
finely chopped
Quantity
2
grated
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
500g
thick ribs removed, sliced
Quantity
200g
sliced small
Quantity
150g
chopped
Quantity
100g
Quantity
1 small bunch
chopped
Quantity
900ml
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dry pa moreno or dense wholemeal country breadsliced very thin | 250g |
| extra virgin olive oil | 60ml |
| large onionfinely chopped | 1 |
| spring onionswhite and green parts sliced | 4 |
| garlic clovesfinely chopped | 4 |
| ripe tomatoesgrated | 2 |
| sweet pimentón | 1 teaspoon |
| green cabbagethick ribs removed, sliced | 500g |
| cauliflower floretssliced small | 200g |
| chard or spinachchopped | 150g |
| peas or sliced green beans | 100g |
| flat-leaf parsleychopped | 1 small bunch |
| vegetable broth or water | 900ml |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| black pepper | to taste |
Slice the bread as thin as you can, about 3mm if your knife allows it, and leave it uncovered while you cook. If it is fresh, dry the slices in a low oven at 120C for 15 minutes without browning them. The bread must drink broth, not dissolve into porridge.
Warm the olive oil in a wide heavy pot or greixonera over medium-low heat. Add the onion, spring onions, garlic, and salt, and cook for 12 to 15 minutes until soft and sweet. Stir in the grated tomato and cook until the oil comes back clear at the edges and the tomato has lost its raw smell. Add the pimentón off the heat for a few seconds so it perfumes the oil without scorching.
Add the cabbage, cauliflower, chard, peas or green beans, parsley, and black pepper. Turn everything through the sofrito until the vegetables shine with oil, then pour in 700ml of the broth. Cover and simmer gently for 25 to 30 minutes, until the cabbage is tender but the vegetables still have shape.
Lift the vegetables out with a slotted spoon into a bowl, leaving the broth in the pot. Lay half the bread slices across the bottom of the pot or a shallow earthenware dish. Spoon over half the vegetables, then repeat with the remaining bread and vegetables.
Ladle the hot broth over the layered bread and vegetables. Add only as much of the remaining 200ml broth as needed for the bread to moisten through; there should be no pool of liquid at the bottom. Cover and rest for 10 minutes. This is the step that makes it Sopes Mallorquines: damp, glossy bread holding its shape, not a bowl of soup.
Taste for salt, drizzle with a little more olive oil, and serve warm from the dish. The bread should be tender, the cabbage sweet, and the vegetables settled into the slices. Put out forks, not spoons. Tal como se hace allí.
1 serving (about 590g)
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