
Chef Juliette
Mayonnaise de Volaille
Cold roast chicken, ciseled lettuce, and a shining coat of homemade mayonnaise, arranged with capers, olives, anchovies, eggs, and lettuce hearts, then tossed at the table as the canon intends.
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Cucumbers smashed to jagged shards, doused in a garlicky soy-vinegar dressing slicked with fiery chili crisp oil. The irregular surfaces catch every drop of that spicy, savory liquid gold.
The Chinese have been smashing cucumbers for centuries while we Americans were still drowning ours in mayonnaise. It's a technique so brilliant in its simplicity that once you try it, you'll wonder why you ever bothered with a knife. A quick whack with a cleaver or rolling pin shatters the cucumber into irregular pieces with rough, fractured surfaces that grab dressing like nothing a blade could produce.
This is honest food. Five minutes of work, maybe ten if you're dawdling. The cucumbers provide the crunch. The dressing brings the fire and the funk. Together they create something far greater than the sum of their parts.
I first encountered this salad in a tiny Sichuan restaurant where it arrived before I'd finished ordering. Cold, spicy, impossibly refreshing. I ate it too fast and ordered another. The cook laughed at me through the kitchen window. She knew what she had.
The dressing matters. You'll build a proper emulsion by whisking soy sauce and rice vinegar with minced garlic, then streaming in sesame oil until everything comes together glossy and unified. The chili crisp goes on at the end, stirred through just enough to distribute its crunchy bits and fiery oil without muddying the sauce. Let the cucumbers rest ten minutes in this dressing. They'll soften slightly at the edges while staying crisp at their hearts, drinking in all that flavor.
Quantity
2 pounds (about 2 large)
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons, divided
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
2 tablespoons
unseasoned
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
4 cloves
minced
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
3 tablespoons
with sediment
Quantity
2 tablespoons
toasted
Quantity
3
thinly sliced on the bias
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| English cucumbers | 2 pounds (about 2 large) |
| kosher salt | 1 1/2 teaspoons, divided |
| soy sauce | 3 tablespoons |
| rice vinegarunseasoned | 2 tablespoons |
| toasted sesame oil | 1 tablespoon |
| garlicminced | 4 cloves |
| granulated sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| chili crisp oilwith sediment | 3 tablespoons |
| sesame seedstoasted | 2 tablespoons |
| scallionsthinly sliced on the bias | 3 |
| fresh cilantro leaves (optional) | for serving |
Trim the ends from your cucumbers. Lay one cucumber on a cutting board and place the flat side of a cleaver or chef's knife on top. Give it a firm whack with your palm or fist. You're not trying to pulverize it. You want it to crack and split, shattering into irregular pieces. The cucumber should yield with a satisfying crunch, fracturing along its natural weak points. Cut or tear any large pieces into rough one to two inch chunks.
Transfer the smashed cucumber pieces to a colander set over a bowl. Toss with one teaspoon of the kosher salt and let them sit for ten minutes. The salt draws out excess moisture that would otherwise dilute your dressing. You'll see liquid pooling in the bowl below. Give the cucumbers a gentle squeeze, pressing out additional water without crushing them. Pat dry with a clean kitchen towel.
In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, rice vinegar, remaining half teaspoon of salt, sugar, and minced garlic. Whisk until the sugar and salt dissolve completely. Now stream in the sesame oil while whisking constantly. The mixture will turn glossy and slightly thickened as it emulsifies. This takes about thirty seconds of vigorous whisking. The dressing should coat a spoon with a thin, even film.
Stir the chili crisp oil into your dressing, making sure to scoop up the sediment at the bottom of the jar. Those crunchy bits of fried garlic, shallot, and chili flakes are where half the flavor lives. Don't just skim the oil off the top. Dig deep. Fold gently until the red oil swirls through the sauce and the crunchy pieces are distributed.
Place the drained cucumbers in a large bowl. Pour the dressing over and toss thoroughly, making sure every piece gets coated. The rough, fractured surfaces will grab the sauce in a way smooth knife cuts never could. Let the salad rest at room temperature for ten minutes. This brief marriage allows the cucumbers to absorb flavor while retaining their essential crunch.
Transfer to a serving platter or shallow bowl. Scatter the toasted sesame seeds and sliced scallions over the top. Add cilantro leaves if you're using them. Serve immediately with small plates and chopsticks or forks. This salad waits for no one. The texture starts to fade after an hour, so put it out and watch it disappear.
1 serving (about 225g)
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