
Chef Dean
Antipasto Tortellini Salad
Plump cheese tortellini tumbled with the greatest hits of the Italian deli counter, all glossed in a garlicky herb vinaigrette that improves as it sits. This is the potluck dish that comes home empty.
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Spring asparagus shaved into delicate ribbons, dressed with nothing more than good olive oil, fresh lemon, and shards of true Parmigiano-Reggiano. A salad that celebrates the first tender spears of the season.
The first asparagus of spring arrives before we are ready for it. One week the farmers' market stalls hold only storage vegetables, roots and brassicas that have weathered winter. The next week, there are bundles of slender green spears, snapped that morning, still cold from the fields.
These early spears are tender enough to eat raw. That is the test. If you must peel them, if the skin seems woody, wait another week or find a different farmer. The asparagus you want for this salad should snap cleanly and taste sweet when you bite into it at the market. Do not be shy about this. A good farmer expects it.
Shaving asparagus into ribbons transforms the spear entirely. What was straight and upright becomes curled and delicate, almost like green pasta. The vegetable peeler does the work. You are not cooking here. You are getting out of the way.
Dress this salad moments before serving. The lemon will begin to soften the ribbons immediately, which is pleasant for five minutes and problematic after ten. Let things taste of what they are: grass and green and the unmistakable sweetness of spring.
Quantity
1 pound
preferably just-picked
Quantity
2 ounces
in one piece
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 small
juiced (about 2 tablespoons)
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly cracked
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| thick asparagus spearspreferably just-picked | 1 pound |
| Parmigiano-Reggiano cheesein one piece | 2 ounces |
| excellent olive oil | 3 tablespoons |
| lemonjuiced (about 2 tablespoons) | 1 small |
| flaky sea salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly cracked | to taste |
Look at your asparagus. The tips should be tight and closed, the stalks firm with no wrinkling. Bend one spear near the bottom until it snaps. This is where the woody part ends. Trim the rest of the bunch to match. Save the tough ends for stock if you keep one going.
Hold one spear flat against a cutting board. Starting just below the tip, draw a vegetable peeler down the length of the spear in long, even strokes. Rotate as you work, shaving until you reach the core and the ribbon becomes too narrow to continue. The ribbons will curl naturally. This is what you want.
Use the same peeler to shave the Parmigiano-Reggiano into thin, irregular shards. True Parmigiano has a crystalline texture that shatters more than it curls. This is correct. You want some pieces paper-thin, others with more heft.
Pile the asparagus ribbons loosely on a serving platter or individual plates. Drizzle with olive oil first, then lemon juice. Toss gently with your hands, lifting from the bottom. Season with flaky salt and cracked pepper. Scatter the parmesan shards over the top. Serve within minutes.
1 serving (about 145g)
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