Sfoglia all'Uovo (Emilian Egg Pasta Dough)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large wooden board or clean work surface (at least 24 inches)
• •Fork for mixing
• •Bench scraper for cleanup
• •Plastic wrap
• •Hand-crank pasta machine (highly recommended)
• •Clean kitchen towels for drying
• •Sharp knife or pasta cutter attachment

Instructions

1. 1

   Form the well

   Mound the flour on a large wooden board or clean countertop. Make a wide well in the center, pushing flour up the sides to create walls about three inches high. The well must be wide enough to contain the eggs. If it is too narrow, the eggs will breach the walls and run across your counter. This is not a disaster, but it is inconvenient.

   A wooden board is traditional and helps the dough develop texture. A clean counter works. Do not use a bowl for this; you need to see what you are doing.
2. 2

   Add the eggs

   Crack the eggs directly into the well. Use a fork to beat them lightly, keeping the fork within the well. You are breaking the yolks and mixing them with the whites, nothing more. Do not incorporate flour yet.

3. 3

   Incorporate the flour

   With the fork, begin drawing flour from the inner walls of the well into the eggs. Work in small amounts, stirring constantly. The mixture will become a thick paste, then a shaggy mass. When the fork becomes useless, set it aside and begin using your hands. Draw in the remaining flour gradually, pressing and folding the dough together.

   You may not need all the flour, or you may need slightly more. Eggs vary in size. Humidity affects flour. Trust your hands, not the measurement.
4. 4

   Knead the dough

   Once the dough comes together into a rough mass, begin kneading. Push the heel of your hand into the dough, fold it over, rotate a quarter turn, and repeat. The motion should be rhythmic and firm. Knead for 8 to 10 minutes. The dough will transform from rough and sticky to smooth and elastic. When properly kneaded, it should feel like your earlobe when pressed: soft, pliable, with gentle resistance.

   If the dough remains too dry and crumbly after several minutes, wet your hands with a teaspoon of water and continue. If it remains sticky, dust with flour. Small adjustments only.
5. 5

   Test the dough

   Perform the windowpane test. Pinch off a small piece of dough and stretch it gently between your fingers. Properly developed dough will stretch thin enough to see light through without tearing. If it tears immediately, knead for another two minutes and test again. This test tells you the gluten has developed sufficiently to roll thin without breaking.

6. 6

   Rest the dough

   Wrap the dough tightly in plastic wrap. Let it rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. This rest is not optional. It relaxes the gluten, making the dough easier to roll. Skip it and the dough will fight you, springing back each time you try to stretch it.

   The dough can rest up to 2 hours at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator. If refrigerated, bring it to room temperature before rolling.
7. 7

   Divide the dough

   Unwrap the rested dough and cut it into four equal pieces. Work with one piece at a time, keeping the others wrapped to prevent drying. Flatten the piece you are working with into a rough rectangle using your palm.

8. 8

   Roll with the machine

   Set your pasta machine to its widest setting. Pass the flattened dough through once. Fold the resulting strip into thirds, like a letter. Pass it through again on the same setting, feeding the open end first. Repeat this folding and rolling three or four times. This lamination strengthens the dough and creates an even texture.

   Dust lightly with flour only if the dough sticks. Too much flour makes the pasta dry and prevents sauce from adhering properly.
9. 9

   Thin the sheets

   Now begin reducing the thickness. Pass the dough through each successively narrower setting, one pass per setting, without folding. Support the sheet with your free hand as it emerges. For tagliatelle and pappardelle, stop at the second-to-last setting. For filled pastas like tortellini and ravioli, use the thinnest or second-thinnest setting. The sheet should be thin enough to see the shadow of your hand through it.

   If the sheet becomes too long to manage, cut it in half. There is no shame in this. Even the sfogline cut their sheets.
10. 10

    Use or dry the pasta

    For filled pastas, use the sheets immediately while still pliable. For cut pastas like tagliatelle, let the sheets dry on a clean kitchen towel for 10 to 15 minutes until slightly leathery but still flexible, then cut. Pasta that is too wet will stick together when cut. Pasta that is too dry will shatter.

Chef Tips

• •Tipo 00 flour is essential. It is finely milled Italian flour with moderate protein content, producing silky, tender pasta. All-purpose flour creates a tougher, less refined result. Seek out tipo 00 at Italian markets or order it online.
• •Egg size matters. Italian eggs tend to be smaller than American large eggs. Weigh your eggs if possible: you want roughly 60g of egg per 100g of flour. Adjust by adding a yolk if the dough is too dry, or flour if too wet.
• •The traditional ratio in Emilia-Romagna is one egg per 100 grams of flour. Some cooks add an extra yolk for richness. I find three whole eggs for 300 grams produces the proper balance of structure and tenderness.
• •If rolling by hand with a mattarello, you will need a very long rolling pin (at least 32 inches) and a large work surface. The technique takes months to master. Start with a machine. There is no dishonor in this.
• •Fresh pasta cooks in 2 to 4 minutes depending on thickness. It is done when it floats and tastes tender with the slightest resistance. Overcooked fresh pasta is a tragedy.

Advance Preparation

• •Dough can be made up to 24 hours ahead and refrigerated, tightly wrapped. Bring to room temperature before rolling.
• •Rolled sheets for filled pasta must be used within 30 minutes or they become too dry to seal properly.
• •Cut pasta (tagliatelle, fettuccine) can be tossed with semolina, formed into nests, and frozen for up to one month. Cook directly from frozen, adding one minute to cooking time.
• •Dried pasta nests can be stored at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 3 days, though fresh is always superior.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 95g)