
Chef Klaus
Allgäuer Krautkrapfen
The Allgäu pan dish that makes a meal from noodle dough, winter kraut, onion, and fat: brown the cut sides first, then cook gently so the rolls hold.
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The slaughter-day plate is not delicate food. It is pork belly, shoulder, blood sausage, liver sausage, and sauerkraut, all held together by one quiet rule: never let the kettle boil hard.
Schlachtplatte is the slaughter-day table, strongest in the south and southwest, in Baden, the Pfalz, Franconia, Swabia, and across the Alpine edge. It belongs to the cold months, when a pig was killed, divided, cured, smoked, boiled, stuffed, and eaten before anything spoiled. Weggeworfen wird nichts, nothing gets thrown away. Belly, shoulder, cheek, rind, blood, liver, broth, all of it has a job.
Every region has its own temper. In Franconia and Bavaria you hear Kesselfleisch, kettle meat, with belly and shoulder lifted straight from the simmering pot. In Saxony and Thuringia, Wellfleisch says much the same thing. In the Pfalz, the plate leans hard on sauerkraut, liver sausage, blood sausage, potatoes, mustard, and often a sharp spoon of horseradish. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders. This is not one national plate, and Das ist kein Bierzelt.
The technique is simple and strict: the kettle must tremble, not boil. Hard boiling squeezes the pork tight, bursts the sausages, clouds the broth, and turns good rind rubbery. Gentle heat melts the collagen, warms the sausages through, and leaves you with a clear pork broth worth saving. Nicht aus dem Glas. The cooking liquor is your seasoning, your soup tomorrow, and the reason the kraut tastes like more than cabbage.
Set it down with boiled potatoes, sharp mustard, fresh horseradish, and bread with a real crust. It is regional food, unfussy food, and exact food. Das braucht seine Zeit.
Schlachtplatte comes from the winter slaughter tradition, when farm households killed a pig in the cold season and processed it at once into fresh meat, sausages, smoked cuts, lard, blood pudding, and broth. In many southern and central German regions, the fresh boiling meat was served the same day as Kesselfleisch or Wellfleisch, while the broth became Metzelsuppe, a slaughter soup shared with helpers and neighbours. The dish records a practical household economy: blood and liver went into sausages, rind and bones strengthened the kettle, and sauerkraut from the autumn crock made the fresh pork last on the table.
Quantity
1kg
cut into 6 thick pieces
Quantity
800g
cut into 6 thick pieces
Quantity
1 hock or 400g ribs
Quantity
2
halved, for the kettle
Quantity
2
roughly chopped
Quantity
1 small
cleaned and cut into chunks
Quantity
1 small wedge or 2 stalks
chopped
Quantity
2
Quantity
8
lightly crushed
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2 teaspoons, plus more to finish
Quantity
1.2kg
drained but not rinsed
Quantity
1
grated
Quantity
1
finely sliced, for the sauerkraut
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
250ml
from the kettle
Quantity
6
Quantity
6
Quantity
1.2kg
peeled
Quantity
to serve
Quantity
to serve
grated
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh pork belly with rindcut into 6 thick pieces | 1kg |
| pork shoulder or neckcut into 6 thick pieces | 800g |
| smoked pork hock or smoked pork ribs (optional) | 1 hock or 400g ribs |
| onionshalved, for the kettle | 2 |
| carrotsroughly chopped | 2 |
| leekcleaned and cut into chunks | 1 small |
| celeriac wedge or celery stalkschopped | 1 small wedge or 2 stalks |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| juniper berrieslightly crushed | 8 |
| black peppercorns | 1 teaspoon |
| caraway seeds | 1 teaspoon |
| salt | 2 teaspoons, plus more to finish |
| sauerkrautdrained but not rinsed | 1.2kg |
| applegrated | 1 |
| onionfinely sliced, for the sauerkraut | 1 |
| lard | 2 tablespoons |
| pork cooking brothfrom the kettle | 250ml |
| fresh blood sausages | 6 |
| fresh liver sausages | 6 |
| waxy potatoespeeled | 1.2kg |
| German mustard | to serve |
| fresh horseradishgrated | to serve |
| dark rye bread | to serve |
Put the pork belly, shoulder, smoked hock if using, onions, carrots, leek, celeriac, bay, juniper, peppercorns, caraway, and salt into a wide pot. Cover with cold water by 3cm and bring it up slowly, because a slow climb draws flavour into the broth and keeps the meat from tightening before the fat has time to soften.
As soon as the pot reaches a bare simmer, turn it down until the surface only trembles. Skim the grey foam in the first 20 minutes, not for prettiness, but because the broth will be used again and a clean broth seasons the sauerkraut better. Cook gently for 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours, until a fork slides through the belly rind and the shoulder yields without falling apart.
While the pork cooks, soften the sliced onion in lard in a separate pot until it turns pale gold. Add the sauerkraut and grated apple, then ladle in 250ml of the pork broth once the kettle has been cooking for at least an hour. The apple rounds the acid, the pork broth carries fat and salt into the cabbage, and rinsing the kraut would wash away the reason you put it up in the first place. Cover and simmer 35 to 45 minutes.
Cook the peeled potatoes in salted water until a knife goes through cleanly, then drain them and let them stand uncovered for a few minutes. Dry potatoes take the pork juices and mustard better; wet potatoes make a puddle and teach you nothing.
Lift the cooked pork pieces to a warm dish and strain enough broth back into the pot to cover the sausages. Slide in the blood sausages and liver sausages and keep the broth below a simmer, 75 to 80C if you use a thermometer, for 15 to 20 minutes. Do not boil them. Blood sausage bursts when bullied, and liver sausage goes grainy when the fat is driven out.
Taste the sauerkraut and correct it with salt only at the end, because the pork broth reduces and the sausage will bring its own seasoning to the plate. Slice the belly and shoulder thickly, mound the kraut on a large platter, and lay the Kesselfleisch, blood sausage, and liver sausage over it. Serve with potatoes, mustard, grated horseradish, rye bread, and a jug of the hot broth for anyone who knows what is good. Würzen, Fett, Salz zum Schluss.
1 serving (about 820g)
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