Chef Isabel
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San Simon da Costa with Rye Bread and Quince
Created by
San Simon da Costa is Galician, from Terra Cha in Lugo: a buttery cow cheese smoked over birch until its rind turns amber and its heart stays pale, mild, and gently sweet.
Appetizers & Snacks
Spanish
Dinner Party
Picnic
Special Occasion
15 min
Active Time
0 min cook•35 min total
Yield4 servings
San Simon da Costa is Galicia's smoked cow cheese, from Terra Cha in Lugo, and it doesn't need dressing up. Its shape gives it away first, a smooth little cone with a rounded top, then the amber rind and the soft smell of birch smoke. Inside it should be buttery, pale, and mild, not sharp and not harsh.
The method that decides this dish is restraint. Let the cheese come out of the cold, but don't leave it sweating on the table. Slice it thin so the smoke doesn't bully the milk, and serve it with bread that has a little backbone, pan de centeo, Galician rye bread, if you can get it. Quince, walnuts, and a thread of honey are enough. More than that and you're hiding the cheese, which is foolish after you've paid for a good one.
If you're far from Galicia, look first for another lightly smoked cow's milk cheese. If you use smoked Idiazabal, know what changes: it is Basque and usually sheep's milk, firmer and sharper, so slice it thinner and use less honey. No hace falta haber pisado Espana. Buy the best cheese you can, weigh it, slice it, and leave it alone. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
San Simon da Costa belongs to Terra Cha, the broad inland plain of Lugo in Galicia, where cow's milk cheeses were made in small household formats and smoked to help preserve them in the damp northern climate. The cheese is recognized by its pear-like conical shape and its amber rind, traditionally colored and flavored by slow smoking over birch wood. It is protected under the Denominacion de Origen Protegida San Simon da Costa, which keeps the cheese tied to its place, its milk, its shape, and its smoke.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
San Simon da Costa cheese
Quantity
250g
Galician rye bread or good rustic rye bread
Quantity
160g
sliced
membrillo (quince paste)
Quantity
80g
cut into thin pieces
walnuts
Quantity
40g
lightly broken
mild honey
Quantity
1 tablespoon
extra virgin olive oil (optional)
Quantity
1 tablespoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| San Simon da Costa cheese | 250g |
| Galician rye bread or good rustic rye breadsliced | 160g |
| membrillo (quince paste)cut into thin pieces | 80g |
| walnutslightly broken | 40g |
| mild honey | 1 tablespoon |
| extra virgin olive oil (optional) | 1 tablespoon |
Equipment Needed
- •Sharp cheese knife
- •Wooden board or simple ceramic plate
- •Small honey spoon
Instructions
- 1
Temper the cheese
Take the San Simon da Costa out of the refrigerator 20 minutes before serving. It should lose its chill but not grow oily or soft at the edges. Cold cheese tastes closed; warm cheese tastes tired. This one wants the middle.
- 2
Slice it thin
Cut away only any dry outer edge that seems tough, keeping the amber rind if it is pleasant and clean. Slice the cheese into thin wedges or half-moons, about 4mm thick. Thin slices let the buttery milk come first and the birch smoke follow after.
- 3
Set the bread
Lay the rye bread on the board or toast it very lightly if it is not fresh. If you toast it, let it cool for a minute before the cheese touches it, or the fat will loosen too quickly. A few drops of olive oil on the bread are fine, but don't soak it.
- 4
Finish the board
Arrange the cheese in one loose line, not piled up, with the membrillo and walnuts beside it. Drizzle the honey lightly over only part of the cheese so the first bite can be plain. Serve at once, with the bread close by and a small knife for anyone who wants a thicker piece. Nadie nace sabiendo, but cheese service is kind: keep it simple and the good cheese does the work.
Chef Tips
- •Buy San Simon da Costa whole or in a fresh wedge with the rind intact. The rind should be amber and lightly smoky, not wet, cracked, or smelling of harsh ash.
- •If you can't find it, use a lightly smoked cow's milk cheese first. Smoked Idiazabal works in a pinch, but it is Basque sheep's milk and stronger, so slice it thinner and keep the accompaniments quieter.
- •For wine, pour a Galician white with nerve, Ribeiro or Godello. You want freshness against the butter and smoke, not a heavy red that makes the cheese taste dull.
Advance Preparation
- •Cut the membrillo and break the walnuts up to 1 day ahead; keep them covered at room temperature.
- •Do not slice the cheese hours ahead. Slice it within 30 minutes of serving so the cut faces stay fresh and the smoke stays gentle.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 135g)
Calories
355 calories
Total Fat
17 g
Saturated Fat
9 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
7 g
Cholesterol
55 mg
Sodium
600 mg
Total Carbohydrates
32 g
Dietary Fiber
4 g
Sugars
16 g
Protein
19 g
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