Salsa Verde Vasca

Salsa verde vasca belongs to the Basque coast, where it is the proper companion to merluza, hake, and clams. This is a warm pan sauce of garlic, parsley, olive oil and fish liquor, held together with a little flour. It should be pale green and glossy, loose enough to run around the fish. No blender and no spinach. That makes another sauce.

The method that decides it is the movement of the pan. Once the liquid goes in, don't stir. Hold the cazuela by its handles and move it in small circles so the oil, flour and fish stock draw together without turning pasty. Keep the heat gentle too. A hard boil makes the oil separate and cooks the parsley to khaki.

If txakoli isn't sold where you are, use any crisp, dry, unoaked white wine. If proper fish stock is difficult to find, strained clam or mussel cooking liquor diluted with an equal amount of water works, though the sauce will be brinier and need less salt. My Margin beside this one says only two things: keep the garlic pale and keep the pan moving. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.