
Chef Lesia
Buryakovyi Salat (буряковий салат, raw beet salad)
The beet stays raw, so the salad bites back: crimson, garlicky, nutty, slick with green sunflower oil, and ready before the bread is on the table.
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The trick is to dress the lentils while they're still warm, when each little coin opens its coat and drinks in garlic, walnut oil, dill, and sharp onion.
Warm lentils are greedy. Dress them cold and the oil slides around the bowl; dress them while they still smell nutty from the pot and they drink up garlic, vinegar, green sunflower oil, and the walnuts that soften into the dressing like they were always meant to be there.
This is not a grand feast dish. Good. Some of the best Ukrainian food lives in the weekday bowl, the kind you make when money is tight, guests might still appear, and you need something that will sit well in the fridge without turning sad. In my London kitchen I make it in the autumn, when walnuts are fresh and a bunch of dill still makes the whole room feel green, but it is just as honest in February with stored onions and a jar of sour tomatoes on the side.
The one thing that decides the dish is timing. Salt the lentils after they soften so their skins don't toughen, then drain them well and dress them hot enough to wake the garlic. Aunt Nadia would have written, "until the smell changes," and here it means the raw bite turns round, the oil smells grassy, and the walnuts go from dry crunch to something almost creamy. Make a big bowl. Leftovers are tomorrow's lunch, and tomorrow they may be better.
Lentils, sochevytsia, belong to Ukraine's older pulse cookery alongside peas, beans, and buckwheat, especially in fasting kitchens where meatless dishes had to carry real strength. Walnuts link this version to the south and southwest, including Odesa, Bessarabia, and Podillia, where nut trees, sunflower oil, garlic, and sharp pickles turn plain legumes into table food, not punishment.
Quantity
300g
rinsed and picked over
Quantity
1
Quantity
1
peeled and halved
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
80g
roughly chopped
Quantity
1 small
finely sliced
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
2 cloves
finely grated or crushed
Quantity
1 large bunch
finely chopped
Quantity
1 small handful
finely sliced
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
2
chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| green or brown lentilsrinsed and picked over | 300g |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| small onionpeeled and halved | 1 |
| sea salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| walnutsroughly chopped | 80g |
| red onionfinely sliced | 1 small |
| apple cider vinegar or brine from fermented tomatoes | 2 tablespoons |
| honey or sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| unrefined sunflower oil | 3 tablespoons |
| garlicfinely grated or crushed | 2 cloves |
| dillfinely chopped | 1 large bunch |
| chives or spring onionsfinely sliced | 1 small handful |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| sour cucumbers or fermented tomatoes (optional)chopped | 2 |
Put the lentils in a pan with the bay leaf and halved onion, then cover with plenty of cold water. Bring them to a lively simmer, then lower the heat so the surface moves gently. Cook until the lentils are tender but still holding their shape, tasting as you go. They should give under your teeth, not burst into mash.
While the lentils cook, toast the walnuts in a dry pan until they smell warm and slightly sweet. Shake the pan often. When their color deepens by one shade and the first little skins loosen, tip them out so they don't scorch.
Put the sliced red onion in your serving bowl with the vinegar or tomato brine, honey, and a pinch of salt. Scrunch it once with your fingers and leave it while everything else finishes. The onion should relax, turn glossy, and lose its sharp shout.
Drain the lentils well and discard the bay leaf and onion. Add the hot lentils straight to the bowl with the softened onion, then fold in the sunflower oil, garlic, walnuts, and plenty of black pepper. This is the whole secret: warm lentils drink the dressing, and the garlic blooms without needing a pan.
Fold in the dill, chives or spring onions, and the chopped sour cucumbers or fermented tomatoes if using. Taste for salt, sourness, and oil. It should be nutty first, then garlicky, then bright at the end. Serve warm, or let it cool and pack it for the next day.
1 serving (about 165g)
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