
Chef Klaus
Allgäuer Kaspressknödel
Pressed bread dumplings from the Alpine south, fried until the cheese catches at the edges and the middle stays soft enough for broth, kraut, or a weekday plate.
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Cold riced potato, drained quark, and a hot buttered pan: the Saxon cake that fails only when the dough is wet and the cook gets impatient.
Quarkkeulchen belong to Saxony, especially Dresden and the Erzgebirge, where a boiled potato left from yesterday becomes supper today. They sit between sweet main dish, side dish, and coffee-table plate, depending on the house. Some cooks put raisins in, some refuse them. Some serve apple sauce, some cinnamon sugar, and in the south they would rather argue about Kaiserschmarrn. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders.
The technique is simple and strict: cook the floury potatoes the day before, rice them cold, and drain the quark well. Warm potato weeps starch and turns the dough sticky; wet quark makes the cakes slump in the pan. Cold and dry is what holds the little Keulchen, the small cakes, together without burying them in flour.
I fry them in butter with a little neutral oil so the butter tastes like butter and doesn't blacken before the middle warms through. Runter mit der Temperatur if they brown too fast. You want a golden crust, a soft quark-potato middle, and enough salt in the dough to keep the sweetness from going flat. Schön ist, was schmeckt.
Quarkkeulchen are strongly tied to Saxon and Erzgebirge home cooking, where potatoes became central after the eighteenth-century spread of potato cultivation in German-speaking lands, encouraged in Prussia by Frederick II's potato orders from 1756 onward. The dish shows the old larder logic clearly: leftover boiled potatoes, fresh quark from dairying, and a little flour are turned into a filling pan dish instead of being wasted. Regional versions split over raisins, lemon zest, and the serving, with Saxon tables often using apple sauce or cinnamon sugar while neighbouring regions have their own sweet fried dough and potato dishes.
Quantity
600g
boiled in their skins the day before and chilled
Quantity
250g
drained
Quantity
80g, plus more for shaping
Quantity
1
Quantity
30g
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
finely grated
Quantity
1 pinch
Quantity
50g
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
to serve
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| floury potatoesboiled in their skins the day before and chilled | 600g |
| quarkdrained | 250g |
| plain flour | 80g, plus more for shaping |
| egg | 1 |
| sugar | 30g |
| vanilla sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| lemon zestfinely grated | 1 teaspoon |
| salt | 1 pinch |
| raisins (optional) | 50g |
| clarified butter or butter | 2 tablespoons |
| neutral oil | 1 tablespoon |
| cinnamon sugar | to serve |
| apple sauce | to serve |
Boil the potatoes in their skins the day before until a knife goes in cleanly, then drain them well, peel them, and chill them overnight. Floury potatoes dry as they cool, and that dryness is what lets the cakes hold without turning them into flour dumplings.
Set the quark in a fine sieve or cloth for at least 30 minutes if it looks loose. Wet quark thins the dough and makes the Keulchen spread before the crust sets, and no amount of panic-flour fixes that without making them heavy.
Rice the cold potatoes into a wide bowl, then add the drained quark, flour, egg, sugar, vanilla sugar, lemon zest, salt, and raisins if you're using them. Mix only until the dough comes together. Work it too hard and the potato starch turns elastic, which is good for wallpaper paste and bad for supper.
Dust your hands and board lightly with flour, roll the dough into a thick log, and cut it into 10 to 12 pieces. Pat each piece into a squat oval about 2cm thick. Keep the flour outside, not worked into the dough, because a dry surface fries crisp while a flour-heavy middle eats like paste.
Heat the clarified butter with the oil in a wide pan over medium heat, then fry the cakes in batches for 3 to 4 minutes per side until deep golden. Do not crowd the pan; crowded cakes cool the fat and soak it up. If the crust colours before the centre firms, runter mit der Temperatur, down with the temperature.
Drain the Quarkkeulchen briefly on kitchen paper, then serve them warm with apple sauce and cinnamon sugar. The apple gives the sour note the quark wants, and the sugar belongs outside where it sparkles and crunches a little, not buried in the dough.
1 serving (about 325g)
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