
Chef Isabel
Asadillo Manchego
Asadillo Manchego is La Mancha's roasted pepper salad: red peppers, tomato, olive oil, garlic, and cumin, pounded plainly and served with egg, warm or cold.
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Remojón Granadino is Granada's winter salad: sweet oranges, desalted bacalao, black olives, onion, and good olive oil. The cod must be soaked right, or the whole dish shouts.
Remojón Granadino is Granada's salad, Andaluz but not coastal in spirit: winter oranges, desalted bacalao, black olives, onion, and olive oil brought together cold. It is sharp, sweet, salty, and plain. That is why it works. No lettuce, no little decoration pretending to be lunch. This is what Granada makes when the oranges are at their best and the cupboard still has salt cod.
The method that decides it is the bacalao. Soak it long enough to tame the salt, but don't wash the life out of it. You want flakes that still taste of the sea, because the orange is sweet and needs that edge. Slice the onion thin and soak it briefly in cold water if it is fierce; that costs the dish nothing and saves it from tasting raw all the way through.
If you're far from Granada, no hace falta haber pisado España. Portuguese or Italian salt cod works well, because it is the same honest preservation. If you cannot find it, use unsmoked cooked cod salted lightly at the end, but know what changes: the salad will be softer and less deep. Make this with winter oranges that are heavy for their size and bright under the peel. Pésalo, no lo adivines. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
In the Margin beside this one, I keep one warning: season after the cod and olives are in the bowl. Salt first and you punish yourself twice.
Remojón belongs to Granada and the inland eastern Andaluz table, especially the Alpujarra and the Vega, where winter citrus met preserved fish from the old trade routes and household larders. Its sweet orange and salt-cod pairing carries the memory of Andalusí cooking, where fruit, oil, onion, and preserved foods often shared the same plate. Some Granada homes add hard-boiled egg, potato, or roasted pepper, but the lean version of orange, bacalao, olive, and onion is the old winter backbone of the dish.
Quantity
250g
soaked 24 to 36 hours, drained, skin and bones removed
Quantity
4 large, about 800g total
peeled and sliced
Quantity
80g
very thinly sliced
Quantity
70g
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
only if needed
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried salt codsoaked 24 to 36 hours, drained, skin and bones removed | 250g |
| winter orangespeeled and sliced | 4 large, about 800g total |
| mild white onion or spring onionvery thinly sliced | 80g |
| black olives, preferably cuquillo or empeltre | 70g |
| extra virgin olive oil | 60ml |
| vinagre de Jerez (optional) | 1 tablespoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
| salt (optional) | only if needed |
Rinse the salt from the outside of the bacalao, then set it in a bowl of cold water, skin side up if it has skin. Refrigerate 24 to 36 hours, changing the water every 8 to 12 hours. Taste a tiny cooked flake or a thin raw sliver from the thickest part; it should be pleasantly salty, not harsh. This is the step that decides the salad.
Drain the cod well and pat it dry. Pull away any skin and bones, then separate it into small flakes with your fingers. Keep the pieces uneven and natural; chopped cod turns pasty in the bowl. If your cod is very firm, cover it with barely simmering water for 2 minutes, drain, cool, and flake it.
Cut the peel and white pith from the oranges with a sharp knife, then slice them into rounds or half-moons about 1cm thick. Work over a bowl and keep every spoonful of juice. The salad needs that juice under the oil, where it mixes with the salt from the cod and olives.
Put the sliced onion in cold water for 10 minutes if it tastes sharp, then drain and dry it well. You still want onion, not a raw bite that takes over the orange. Spring onion can go in without soaking if it is mild.
Arrange the orange slices on a shallow plate or fuente. Scatter the flaked bacalao over them, then the onion and black olives. Spoon over the saved orange juice, add the olive oil, and the vinegar if your oranges are very sweet. Finish with black pepper. Taste before adding salt; the cod and olives usually bring enough.
Let the remojón sit 15 to 20 minutes before serving, so the orange juice, oil, and salt from the cod make their own dressing in the plate. Serve cool, not fridge-cold. Tal como se hace allí, it should taste bright first, then salty, then round with oil.
1 serving (about 300g)
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