
Chef Isabel
Acedías Fritas de Cádiz
Acedías fritas belong to Cádiz: tiny wedge sole, salted, dusted in frying flour, and dropped into very hot olive oil so the rims crisp while the fish stays tender.
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Rabas are Cantabria's fried squid, cut in long strips instead of rings, floured lightly, and fried fast in hot oil so the outside grips and the squid stays tender.
Rabas are Cantabrian, especially Santander's Sunday plate: squid cut into long strips, not rings, tossed in flour and fried until the edges go crisp and the inside stays tender. This is not calamares a la romana wearing another name. The cut matters, the flour matters, and the oil matters most.
The method that decides it is dryness before the flour and heat once the squid goes in. Wet squid makes paste. Cool oil makes rubber. Dry the strips well, flour them just before frying, shake off more than you think, and give them enough room in oil hot enough to seal the outside quickly. That is the whole trick.
If you are far from Cantabria, use cleaned squid tubes and tentacles from a fishmonger, or good frozen squid thawed overnight in the refrigerator. Frozen can be kinder than tired fresh squid, because it tenderizes a little as it freezes. Just dry it properly. No hace falta haber pisado España. With good squid, hot oil, and a lemon wedge, siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Rabas belong to Cantabria's aperitivo table, especially around Santander, where plates of fried squid are eaten before lunch with a small beer or vermouth. The name refers to the strip cut of the squid, a northern way of serving it that separates it from the ring-shaped calamares common elsewhere. Its roots sit with the Cantabrian coast and its fish markets, where simple frying protected the sweetness of very fresh squid instead of covering it.
Quantity
700g
bodies cut into long strips, tentacles separated
Quantity
160g
Quantity
25g
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to finish
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
750ml
for frying
Quantity
1
cut into wedges
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| cleaned squid bodies and tentaclesbodies cut into long strips, tentacles separated | 700g |
| plain wheat flour | 160g |
| fine semolina or rice flour (optional) | 25g |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to finish |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| mild olive oil or sunflower oilfor frying | 750ml |
| lemoncut into wedges | 1 |
Open the squid bodies flat and cut them lengthwise into strips about 1.5cm wide and 8 to 10cm long. Leave the tentacles in small clusters. Rabas are strips, not rings; that long cut gives you crisp edges and a tender middle, tal como se hace allí.
Lay the squid on a clean cloth or several layers of kitchen paper and pat it very dry. Salt it lightly with about half the sea salt and leave it for 5 minutes, then pat again. This is the step people rush, and then the flour turns gluey. Pésalo, no lo adivines, and dry it properly too.
Pour the oil into a deep pan so it is at least 4cm deep and heat it to 180C. If you have no thermometer, drop in a pinch of flour; it should fizz at once without darkening immediately. Hot oil seals the coating fast, so the squid stays sweet instead of boiling in its own water.
Mix the flour, optional semolina or rice flour, remaining salt, and pepper in a shallow dish. Toss one small handful of squid at a time through the flour, then shake hard in a sieve so only a thin coat stays on. Do this right before the squid enters the oil, not ten minutes earlier.
Fry the squid in small batches for 60 to 90 seconds, turning once, until pale gold with crisp ragged edges. Do not crowd the pan; too much squid drops the oil temperature and gives you chewy rabas. Lift them out as soon as they firm and colour lightly, because squid forgives heat for one minute, not three.
Drain the rabas on a rack or paper for a minute, salt lightly while they are hot, and serve at once with lemon wedges. Eat them with your fingers before the coating softens. That is not bad manners here; that is lunch getting started.
1 serving (about 180g)
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