Quiche Lorraine

The quiche has suffered greatly in this country. Cafeteria steam tables and frozen food aisles have reduced one of France's most dignified preparations to something barely recognizable. I'm here to restore its honor. A proper Quiche Lorraine, made with care, represents everything good about French home cooking: simple ingredients transformed through technique into something greater than their sum.

This dish originated in the Lorraine region, near the German border, where resourceful cooks combined eggs, cream, and smoked pork belly into a savory custard. The original versions contained no cheese at all. That addition came later, an American improvement I happen to endorse. Gruyère brings a nutty depth that complements the smoky lardons beautifully. The two became inseparable somewhere along the way, and I see no reason to divorce them now.

The secret to a great quiche lives in three places: a properly blind-baked crust that stays crisp beneath the filling, a custard ratio that sets without becoming rubbery, and the patience to let it rest before slicing. Rush any of these and you'll understand why so many people think they don't like quiche. They've simply never had one made correctly.

For Easter gatherings, this dish is ideal. It can be assembled the night before and baked the morning of. It serves beautifully at room temperature, freeing you from the tyranny of last-minute cooking. Your guests will think you've been working for hours. Let them believe it.