
Chef Ally
Braised Baby Artichokes with Lemon
Tender baby artichokes braised slowly in good olive oil until they yield to a fork, brightened with lemon and sea salt, nothing more. This is what spring tastes like when you let the ingredient lead.
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Ripe cantaloupe embraced by paper-thin prosciutto, bright with torn mint and a whisper of black pepper. This is summer entertaining at its most generous and uncomplicated, requiring nothing but excellent ingredients and five minutes of your time.
Some dishes prove that restraint is its own form of mastery. Prosciutto and melon is one of them. The Italians understood centuries ago what American summers keep teaching us: when the heat climbs and the cantaloupe runs sweet with juice, the best thing a cook can do is step aside and let the ingredients perform.
I've served this at backyard gatherings from Portland to Providence. It disappears faster than anything requiring actual effort. The salt of good prosciutto against the sugar of peak-season melon creates a balance so complete that adding anything beyond mint feels like an intrusion. This is honest food. No technique to hide behind. No sauce to mask mediocre produce.
The whole exercise takes five minutes if you dawdle. What matters is selection. A melon that perfumes your kitchen when you cut it open. Prosciutto sliced so thin you can nearly see through it. Fresh mint with leaves still supple. These three ingredients, treated with respect, will make you look like a better host than any complicated passed hors d'oeuvre ever could.
This belongs on every summer table in America, from Texas porches where the ceiling fans work overtime to Minnesota lake cabins where the evenings finally cool down. It's the appetizer that says you care enough to buy good ingredients, and wise enough not to ruin them.
Quantity
1 (about 3 pounds)
Quantity
8 ounces (about 16 slices)
Quantity
1/4 cup
loosely packed
Quantity
to taste
freshly cracked
Quantity
for drizzling
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| ripe cantaloupe | 1 (about 3 pounds) |
| prosciutto di Parma, thinly sliced | 8 ounces (about 16 slices) |
| fresh mint leavesloosely packed | 1/4 cup |
| black pepperfreshly cracked | to taste |
| extra-virgin olive oil | for drizzling |
| flaky sea salt (optional) | to taste |
Press the blossom end of your cantaloupe (opposite the stem scar). It should yield slightly and smell intensely of melon. If there's no perfume, there's no flavor. Halve the melon through the equator and scoop out the seeds with a large spoon. Place each half cut-side down and slice into wedges about one inch thick at the widest point. You should get 12 to 16 wedges depending on the melon's size.
Lay each wedge on its side and run your knife between the flesh and the rind, following the curve of the fruit. Work in smooth strokes. The goal is crescent-shaped pieces of pure orange melon, no green or white pith remaining. Discard the rinds or save them for composting.
Lay a slice of prosciutto flat on your cutting board. Place a melon wedge at one end and roll the prosciutto around the melon, leaving the orange tips exposed at both ends. The prosciutto should cling naturally to the fruit's moisture. Don't wrap too tightly or the ham will tear. You want it draped, not strangled. One slice per wedge is sufficient if your prosciutto is properly thin.
Lay the wrapped wedges on a serving platter in a single layer, slightly overlapping if needed. Don't stack them or the weight will compress the delicate prosciutto. A large wooden board or oval ceramic platter works beautifully here, giving guests room to pick up pieces without disturbing their neighbors.
Tear the mint leaves by hand into rough pieces and scatter them across the platter. Tearing releases more aromatic oil than cutting. Crack fresh black pepper generously over everything. The pepper's heat plays against the melon's sweetness in a way that elevates both. Drizzle with your best olive oil in thin streams. If your prosciutto is very mild, a few flakes of sea salt won't hurt. Serve immediately while the melon is still cold and the mint is still vibrant.
1 serving (about 150g)
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