
Chef Ally
All-Butter Croissants
Shatteringly crisp, impossibly tender, and layered with the finest butter you can find. Two days of patience rewarded with the most honest croissant you will ever bake.
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Crisp, airy choux puffs cradling cold vanilla ice cream, baptized in dark chocolate sauce that pools on the plate. This is the French bistro dessert that makes grown adults close their eyes with pleasure.
Start with the butter. Good butter, from cows that grazed on grass, with that faint golden color and the smell of something alive. Choux pastry is nothing more than butter, water, flour, and eggs. When the ingredients are honest, the technique almost takes care of itself.
I learned to make profiteroles in Paris, in a tiny kitchen where the afternoon light came through lace curtains. The woman who taught me used eggs from her cousin's farm and butter she bought at the market that morning. She said very little. She let me watch. The paste came together in seconds, the eggs disappeared one by one, and thirty minutes later we were eating puffs still warm from the oven, split open and filled with ice cream her daughter had churned that week.
This is not a complicated dessert. It only asks that you pay attention. The dough tells you when it is ready. The puffs tell you when they are done. Your job is to listen, and to find the best eggs and butter and chocolate you can. The rest is just faith and a hot oven.
Quantity
1/2 cup (1 stick/113g)
cut into pieces
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 cup (125g)
Quantity
4
at room temperature
Quantity
1 pint
Quantity
6 ounces (70% cacao)
finely chopped
Quantity
3/4 cup
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
pinch
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| unsalted butter (for choux)cut into pieces | 1/2 cup (1 stick/113g) |
| whole milk | 1/2 cup |
| water | 1/2 cup |
| granulated sugar | 1 tablespoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| all-purpose flour | 1 cup (125g) |
| large eggsat room temperature | 4 |
| quality vanilla ice cream | 1 pint |
| bittersweet chocolatefinely chopped | 6 ounces (70% cacao) |
| heavy cream | 3/4 cup |
| unsalted butter (for sauce) | 1 tablespoon |
| fine sea salt (for sauce) | pinch |
Combine the butter, milk, water, sugar, and salt in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Stir occasionally until the butter melts completely. Bring the mixture to a rolling boil. The moment it boils fully, remove from heat. Do not let the liquid reduce or the proportions will suffer.
Add all the flour at once and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon. Return the pan to medium heat. Keep stirring. The dough will come together into a ball that pulls away from the sides of the pan. A thin film will form on the bottom. This takes about two minutes. The paste should look smooth and slightly glossy.
Transfer the paste to a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or to a large bowl if using a hand mixer. Let it cool for three to four minutes, stirring occasionally. The paste should feel warm but not hot. If you add eggs to scorching paste, you will have scrambled eggs, not choux.
Beat in the eggs one at a time on medium speed. After each egg, the mixture will look broken and slippery. Keep beating until it comes back together before adding the next. After all four eggs, the dough should be thick, glossy, and fall from the paddle in a slow, heavy ribbon. It holds a peak but the peak slowly softens.
Preheat your oven to 425°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment. Transfer the dough to a piping bag fitted with a half-inch round tip, or use a sturdy zip-top bag with the corner cut. Pipe mounds about one and a half inches wide, leaving two inches between them. They will double in size. Use a wet fingertip to smooth any peaks.
Bake at 425°F for fifteen minutes. The puffs will rise dramatically and begin to color. Reduce heat to 350°F without opening the door, and bake another twelve to fifteen minutes until deeply golden all over. They should feel light and sound hollow when tapped. Turn off the oven, crack the door, and let them dry inside for five minutes.
Transfer puffs to a wire rack. Poke a small hole in the bottom of each with a skewer or knife tip. This releases steam and keeps them crisp. Cool completely before filling. A warm puff will melt your ice cream before it reaches the table.
Place chopped chocolate in a heatproof bowl. Heat the cream in a small saucepan until it just begins to simmer, tiny bubbles at the edges. Pour hot cream over the chocolate. Let it sit for one minute, then stir from the center outward until smooth and glossy. Stir in the butter and salt. The sauce should be pourable but thick enough to coat a spoon.
Slice each puff in half horizontally. Place a small scoop of vanilla ice cream in the bottom half. Replace the top. Arrange three puffs per serving in shallow bowls. Spoon warm chocolate sauce generously over the top, letting it pool around the base. Serve immediately. These wait for no one.
1 serving (about 165g)
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