Pote Asturiano

Pote Asturiano belongs to Asturias, and the berza is what makes it this dish and not fabada's cousin with a handful of greens thrown in. Fabes, potatoes, and cabbage cook with the same cured compango of chorizo, morcilla, and lacón, but here the greens lead the pot. This is cocina de cuchara, spoon food, older and rougher than fabada, built for cold days and hungry tables.

The method that decides it is the order of the pot. Start the soaked beans with the cured meats in cold water and let them come up slowly, then add the berza after the beans have begun to soften. Put it in too early and it goes dull and tired before the beans are ready; put it in too late and it never gives the broth that deep green, sweet edge. Low heat, no hard boil, and don't stir like you're angry at it. Shake the pot by the handles.

If you can't find Asturian berza, use a sturdy green cabbage, collards, or kale, in that order. The flavor changes a little, more cabbage-sweet with cabbage and earthier with kale, but the dish still stands. Fabes de la granja are best; good cannellini or large white beans will do if that's what your market gives you. No hace falta haber pisado Espana. You need good cured pork, greens with some backbone, and patience.

My Margin beside this one says only: cut the greens finer than pride allows. It was right. Long ribbons look handsome in the bowl and fight the spoon. Chop them well, cook them slow, and let the potato thicken the broth at the end. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.