
Chef Isabel
Acedías Fritas de Cádiz
Acedías fritas belong to Cádiz: tiny wedge sole, salted, dusted in frying flour, and dropped into very hot olive oil so the rims crisp while the fish stays tender.
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Navarra's piquillos rellenos de marisco are roasted Lodosa peppers filled with prawns and scallops in a thick, gentle bechamel. Cook the filling down until it holds its shape.
Piquillos rellenos de marisco are Navarra's, because the pepper is Navarra's: the small red piquillo from Lodosa, roasted, peeled, and sweet enough to carry a filling without losing itself. This seafood version belongs on the Christmas table or at a dinner where the first plate should feel generous. It is not just any roasted pepper stuffed with cream. The pepper is thin, pointed, smoky-sweet, and it folds around the marisco like a little purse.
The filling decides the dish. Cook the onion and leek low for sofrito, the slow onion base, then add the prawns and scallops only long enough to lose their raw shine. The bechamel must cook down until a spoon leaves a clean path in the pan and the mixture holds in a mound. If it's loose, the piquillo leaks. If it's thick and glossy, stuffing is easy. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
No hace falta haber pisado España. Buy jarred pimientos del piquillo if you can, preferably Lodosa; that matters more than fresh peppers. If you cannot find them, use good whole roasted red peppers from a jar, drain them well, and roll them around the filling instead of stuffing the tip. The taste will be sweeter and less smoky, and the shape won't be Navarra's, but the table will still eat well.
In my Margin beside this one I wrote: filling cool, sauce warm, hands calm. Pésalo, no lo adivines. Weigh it, don't guess, especially with the flour and liquid, because a stuffing that holds itself is what lets the pepper stay graceful.
Pimientos del piquillo belong to the Ribera of Navarra, especially Lodosa and the neighbouring Ebro valley towns, where the small pointed peppers are roasted whole and peeled without washing so their flesh keeps its roasting juice. In Navarrese kitchens they are filled many ways, with bacalao, meat, or marisco, and the seafood version is a festive first course for Christmas and family meals. It is a dish of inland Navarra using preserved garden peppers to hold the coast's prawns and shellfish, a practical meeting of market and larder.
Quantity
20 whole, about 400g drained
16 kept intact for stuffing, 4 reserved for sauce
Quantity
80ml
Quantity
250g
finely chopped
Quantity
150g
side muscles removed, finely chopped
Quantity
60ml
divided
Quantity
220g
finely diced and divided
Quantity
60g
finely diced
Quantity
3
minced and divided
Quantity
35g
Quantity
220ml
warmed
Quantity
300ml
warmed and divided
Quantity
80ml
divided
Quantity
120g
Quantity
80ml
Quantity
10g
finely chopped, plus a little for serving
Quantity
5g, plus more to taste
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 small pinch
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole jarred pimientos del piquillo, preferably Lodosa16 kept intact for stuffing, 4 reserved for sauce | 20 whole, about 400g drained |
| reserved piquillo pepper liquid | 80ml |
| raw peeled prawns or langostinosfinely chopped | 250g |
| scallopsside muscles removed, finely chopped | 150g |
| extra virgin olive oildivided | 60ml |
| onionfinely diced and divided | 220g |
| leek, white part onlyfinely diced | 60g |
| garlic clovesminced and divided | 3 |
| plain flour | 35g |
| whole milkwarmed | 220ml |
| fish stock or seafood stockwarmed and divided | 300ml |
| dry white winedivided | 80ml |
| crushed tomato | 120g |
| single cream or light cream | 80ml |
| flat-leaf parsleyfinely chopped, plus a little for serving | 10g |
| fine sea salt | 5g, plus more to taste |
| white pepper | 1/4 teaspoon |
| nutmeg | 1 small pinch |
Drain the piquillos in a sieve set over a bowl and reserve 80ml of their red roasting liquid. Choose the 16 best whole peppers for stuffing and set aside 4 torn or smaller peppers for the sauce. Pat the whole peppers dry inside and out with kitchen paper, but don't rinse them; that roasting juice is part of the dish. If one has a small split, keep it. You can overlap the edges when you fill it.
Warm 30ml of the olive oil in a small saucepan over low heat. Add 100g of the diced onion and cook for 10 to 12 minutes, until soft and sweet but not browned hard. Add 1 minced garlic clove for 30 seconds, then add the 4 reserved piquillos, the crushed tomato, 50ml of the white wine, 200ml of the stock, and the reserved pepper liquid. Simmer gently for 10 minutes, blend smooth, stir in the cream, and season with a little of the salt. Keep it warm.
Warm the remaining 30ml olive oil in a wide frying pan. Add the remaining 120g onion, the leek, and a pinch of the salt, then cook low and steady for 12 to 15 minutes until the vegetables are soft, dark gold, and jammy. This is the sofrito, the slow onion base. Rush it and the filling tastes thin. Add the remaining 2 garlic cloves and stir for 30 seconds.
Add the chopped prawns and scallops to the sofrito and cook for 60 to 90 seconds, just until the seafood loses its raw shine. Stir in the flour and cook for 2 minutes, scraping the pan so it doesn't taste dusty. Add the remaining 30ml white wine and let it almost disappear, then add the warm milk and the remaining 100ml stock in four additions, stirring well each time. Cook for 7 to 9 minutes, until a spoon dragged through the filling leaves a clean path and the mixture holds in a soft mound. Stir in the parsley, white pepper, nutmeg, and enough salt to make it taste full. Spread it on a plate and cool for 15 minutes.
Spoon about 30 to 35g filling into each piquillo, using a small spoon or a piping bag with a wide opening. Don't pack them hard; the pepper should close around the filling, not split from it. Spread a thin layer of sauce in a shallow cazuela or baking dish and lay the filled peppers seam side down in one layer.
Spoon the remaining sauce over and around the peppers. Set the cazuela over low heat, cover loosely, and warm for 10 to 12 minutes, until the sauce gives a quiet bubble at the edges and the peppers are hot through. Do not boil them. The peppers are already cooked, and the seafood is tender; a hard boil splits the piquillos and tightens the filling.
Take the cazuela off the heat and let the peppers rest for 5 minutes so the filling settles. Spoon a little sauce back over the top, finish with a small scatter of parsley and a thin thread of olive oil, and serve warm with bread for the sauce. Tal como se hace allí, plain and careful.
1 serving (about 240g)
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