
Chef Dean
Chinese Almond Cookies
Crumbly, fragrant cookies shaped like golden coins for good fortune, with an intense almond flavor that perfumes your kitchen and announces the Lunar New Year to anyone lucky enough to walk through your door.
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Impossibly tender butter pastry embracing spiced pineapple jam cooked low and slow until it gleams like amber. These traditional Chinese New Year treasures carry centuries of meaning in every bite.
In kitchens across Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, and southern China, the arrival of pineapple tarts signals that the Lunar New Year approaches. The Hokkien call them 'ong lai,' a phrase that sounds identical to 'fortune comes.' To serve these golden pastries is to offer your guests prosperity itself. No Chinese New Year spread is complete without them.
The jam demands your patience. Fresh pineapple, grated and cooked for an hour or more, transforms from pale shreds into a deep golden paste that holds its shape when cooled. Rush this step and you'll have wet, weeping tarts. Honor the process and you'll produce jam so intensely flavored it barely tastes like fruit anymore. It tastes like intention.
The pastry descends from European butter cookie traditions, adapted by Peranakan and Nyonya bakers who married Portuguese and Dutch techniques with local tastes. Milk powder gives it that distinctive melt-on-the-tongue quality found throughout Southeast Asian bakeries. The dough is rich, tender, and unforgiving of warm hands. Work quickly. Keep everything cold.
I've watched grandmothers in Penang shape hundreds of these tarts in a single afternoon, their fingers moving with decades of muscle memory. You'll be slower at first. That's fine. The tarts don't care how long they took to make. They only care that you made them with attention.
Quantity
1 large (about 3 lbs / 1.4 kg)
peeled and cored
Quantity
1 cup (200g)
Quantity
1
Quantity
3
Quantity
1
Quantity
2 cups (280g)
Quantity
1/2 cup (60g)
Quantity
1/4 cup (30g)
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 cup (226g)
cubed
Quantity
2
Quantity
1/4 cup (30g)
sifted
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 egg yolk + 1 tablespoon water
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| ripe pineapplepeeled and cored | 1 large (about 3 lbs / 1.4 kg) |
| granulated sugar | 1 cup (200g) |
| cinnamon stick | 1 |
| whole cloves | 3 |
| star anise | 1 |
| all-purpose flour | 2 cups (280g) |
| cornstarch | 1/2 cup (60g) |
| milk powder | 1/4 cup (30g) |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| unsalted butter, coldcubed | 1 cup (226g) |
| large egg yolks | 2 |
| powdered sugarsifted | 1/4 cup (30g) |
| vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon |
| egg wash | 1 egg yolk + 1 tablespoon water |
Cut the peeled and cored pineapple into chunks and pulse in a food processor until finely shredded, or grate on the large holes of a box grater. You want fibrous shreds, not puree. Transfer to a fine-mesh strainer set over a bowl and press firmly to extract as much juice as possible. Reserve the juice for drinking. You should have about 3 cups of pressed pineapple pulp.
Combine the drained pineapple pulp, sugar, cinnamon stick, cloves, and star anise in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan or Dutch oven. Set over medium heat and stir until the sugar dissolves. The mixture will become very liquid as the pineapple releases its remaining moisture. This is expected.
Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, stirring frequently, for 60 to 90 minutes. The jam is ready when it turns deep golden amber, pulls away from the sides of the pan, and holds a mound when you drop a spoonful onto a cold plate. It will sizzle and sputter near the end. Stir constantly in the final 15 minutes to prevent scorching. Remove and discard the whole spices.
Spread the hot jam onto a rimmed baking sheet and let it cool completely at room temperature. Once cool, use your hands to roll the jam into small balls, about 1 teaspoon each. You should get roughly 48 balls. Place them on a parchment-lined tray and refrigerate until firm, at least 30 minutes.
Whisk together the flour, cornstarch, milk powder, and salt in a large bowl. Add the cold cubed butter and work it into the flour using a pastry cutter or your fingertips until the mixture resembles coarse sand with some pea-sized pieces remaining. Work quickly to keep the butter cold.
In a small bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the powdered sugar and vanilla until smooth. Pour this into the flour mixture and stir with a fork until the dough just comes together. Turn out onto a clean surface and knead briefly, no more than 30 seconds, until smooth. The dough should be supple but not sticky. Wrap tightly in plastic and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
Preheat your oven to 350°F (175°C). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Pinch off a piece of dough about the size of a large marble (roughly 10g) and flatten it in your palm. Place a chilled jam ball in the center and wrap the dough around it, pinching the seam closed. Roll gently between your palms to smooth. Place seam-side down on the prepared baking sheet, spacing tarts 1 inch apart.
For the classic pineapple appearance, use the blunt side of a butter knife to press shallow diagonal lines across the top of each tart in one direction, then repeat at an angle to create a crosshatch diamond pattern. This mimics the pineapple's skin and is the traditional presentation. Work gently so you don't flatten the tarts.
Brush each tart lightly with the egg wash, taking care not to let it pool in the grooves. The wash creates the signature golden sheen. Let the first coat dry for 5 minutes, then apply a second thin layer for deeper color.
Bake for 18 to 22 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through, until the tarts are deep golden brown on top and slightly darker at the edges. The pastry should look dry, not moist. Remove from oven and let cool completely on the baking sheets. The tarts will be very fragile when hot but will firm as they cool.
1 serving (about 41g)
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