
Chef Thomas
A Proper Bacon Sandwich
Back bacon in a hot pan, good white bread, soft salted butter. Ten minutes between waking up and the first bite of something that makes the morning make sense.
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Created by Chef Thomas
A crumpet's thinner, more spontaneous cousin, cooked without a ring on a hot griddle until the surface is covered in tiny holes that fill with melting butter. A Midlands kitchen on a Saturday morning.
The batter is resting under a tea towel and the kitchen smells of yeast. Not the sharp, beery smell of bread dough, but something softer, sweeter, closer to the warmth of the room itself. This is the smell of a weekend morning with nowhere particular to be.
Pikelets are the crumpet's less formal relation. No rings, no fuss. You make a batter, let it rise, and drop spoonfuls onto a hot griddle where they spread into thin, holey discs that cook in a couple of minutes. They're a Midlands and Northern thing, though every family seems to have a slightly different version and a strong opinion about which one is correct. My version is the one I was taught: plain flour, yeast, a touch of sugar, and the patience to let the batter do its work.
The holes are the point. They form as the batter cooks, tiny craters opening across the surface like a landscape seen from a distance. When you spread butter on a warm pikelet, it melts into every one of those holes, and that first bite is soft, yielding, salty, and warm in a way that nothing else quite is. There are few better feelings than putting a plate of these in front of someone on a cold morning.
I wrote it down in the notebook years ago: pikelets, Saturday, rain against the window, the kitchen fogged. A recipe is a conversation, not a contract. This one barely needs words.
Quantity
225g
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
200ml
warmed to blood temperature
Quantity
100ml
Quantity
a little
for the griddle
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| plain flour | 225g |
| fast-action dried yeast | 1 teaspoon |
| caster sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| bicarbonate of soda | 1/2 teaspoon |
| whole milkwarmed to blood temperature | 200ml |
| warm water | 100ml |
| butter or neutral oilfor the griddle | a little |
| salted butter | to serve |
Put the flour, yeast, sugar, and salt in a mixing bowl. Make a well in the centre and pour in the warm milk and water. Whisk it together until you have a smooth, thick batter, about the consistency of double cream. It should drop lazily from a spoon, not pour. Cover the bowl with a tea towel and leave it somewhere warm for forty to fifty minutes. The surface will start to bubble and the batter will have risen noticeably, smelling yeasty and alive.
When the batter has risen and the surface is covered in small bubbles, dissolve the bicarbonate of soda in a tablespoon of warm water and stir it through gently. The batter will fizz and puff slightly. Don't beat it. A few gentle strokes to incorporate. The bicarbonate gives the pikelets their holes, and overworking the batter closes them up.
Set a heavy frying pan or flat griddle over a medium heat. Grease it very lightly with a small knob of butter or a wipe of oil on kitchen paper. The pan needs to be properly hot but not smoking. If the butter browns the moment it touches the surface, it's too fierce. Drop a tiny bit of batter in. If it sets almost immediately and starts to form bubbles within seconds, you're ready.
Drop a generous tablespoon of batter onto the griddle. It will spread naturally into a rough circle, thinner than a crumpet, about the width of your palm. Cook two or three at a time, leaving space between them. Within a minute or so, you'll see small holes forming across the surface, the batter setting around them as the bubbles burst. When the top has lost its wet shine and the underside is golden, a quick glance with a palette knife will tell you, flip it. The second side takes less time, thirty seconds or so, just enough to set and colour lightly. Stack the cooked pikelets in a clean tea towel to keep them soft and warm.
Eat them warm, stacked on a plate with a good amount of salted butter. The butter should melt into the holes, pooling in every small crater across the surface. Honey or jam if you like, but try the first one with just butter. The gentle yeastiness of the batter and the salt of the butter is all you need. Put the plate in the middle of the table and let people help themselves.
1 serving (about 45g)
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