Parmigiana di Melanzane

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large heavy skillet for frying
• •9-by-13-inch baking dish
• •Colander for draining eggplant
• •Clean kitchen towels for drying
• •Medium saucepan for tomato sauce

Instructions

1. 1

   Salt the eggplant

   Slice the eggplant lengthwise into rounds about one-third inch thick. Layer the slices in a colander, salting generously between each layer. Set the colander over a bowl or in the sink and let the eggplant drain for at least one hour. The salt draws out moisture and bitterness. You will see dark liquid pooling beneath. This step is not optional.

   Do not skip the salting, and do not rush it. Unsalted eggplant absorbs oil like a sponge and tastes bitter. One hour is minimum. Two hours is better.
2. 2

   Make the tomato sauce

   While the eggplant drains, make the sauce. Pour the tomatoes into a bowl and crush them by hand. In a saucepan, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the crushed garlic and cook until it colors lightly, about two minutes. Watch it carefully. The moment it turns gold, add the crushed tomatoes and the basil leaves. Simmer gently for 25 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt. Remove and discard the garlic and basil. The sauce should be thick enough to coat a spoon.

3. 3

   Prepare the eggplant for frying

   When the eggplant has drained, rinse the slices briefly under cold water to remove excess salt. Pat each slice thoroughly dry with clean kitchen towels. Press firmly. Any moisture remaining will cause the oil to spatter and prevent proper browning. The slices should feel nearly dry to the touch.

4. 4

   Fry the eggplant

   Pour vegetable oil into a large heavy skillet to a depth of half an inch. Heat over medium-high heat until a small piece of eggplant sizzles immediately when dropped in. Fry the eggplant slices in batches, without crowding, until golden brown on both sides, about two minutes per side. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper towels to drain. The slices should be tender when pierced but not limp.

   The traditional method is frying. Baking is a modern concession to health concerns. If you must bake, brush the slices with oil and roast at 425°F until golden, about 20 minutes per side. The texture will be different. I am telling you what is authentic, not what is convenient.
5. 5

   Assemble the parmigiana

   Heat your oven to 375°F. Spread a thin layer of tomato sauce on the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Arrange a layer of fried eggplant slices over the sauce, overlapping slightly. Spoon more sauce over the eggplant, then scatter slices of mozzarella on top. Sprinkle with Parmigiano-Reggiano and tuck a few basil leaves between the layers. Repeat the layers until all eggplant is used, ending with sauce, mozzarella, and a generous shower of Parmigiano. You should have three or four layers.

6. 6

   Bake until bubbling

   Bake uncovered until the top is golden and the sauce bubbles around the edges, 35 to 40 minutes. The cheese should be melted and beginning to brown in spots. If the top browns too quickly, cover loosely with foil for the final minutes.

7. 7

   Rest before serving

   This is critical: let the parmigiana rest for at least 20 minutes before cutting. The layers need time to set. If you cut it immediately, it will collapse into a molten heap. It can rest for an hour or more. In Naples, it is often served at room temperature, which allows the flavors to settle and the texture to firm. This is a contorno, a vegetable side dish. Serve it alongside roasted meat or fish, not as a main course drowning in extra cheese.

Chef Tips

• •Use Italian globe eggplants, which are smaller and less bitter than the large American variety. If only large eggplants are available, slice them crosswise into rounds rather than lengthwise.
• •Fresh mozzarella labeled fior di latte (cow's milk) is traditional here. Mozzarella di bufala has too much moisture and will make the dish watery. Low-moisture mozzarella from a block is acceptable in a pinch, though less delicate.
• •The dish improves if made a day ahead and refrigerated, then brought to room temperature or gently rewarmed. The flavors meld and the layers set firmly. In southern Italy, this is often made in the morning for an evening meal.
• •Do not add ricotta, meat sauce, or extra layers of cheese. What you keep out is as significant as what you put in. This is a vegetable dish, not a casserole.

Advance Preparation

• •The tomato sauce can be made three days ahead and refrigerated.
• •The eggplant can be salted, fried, and drained several hours ahead. Keep at room temperature, not refrigerated.
• •The assembled, unbaked parmigiana can be refrigerated overnight. Bring to room temperature for 30 minutes before baking, and add 10 minutes to the baking time.
• •The finished dish keeps refrigerated for four days and reheats gently. Many prefer it at room temperature the next day.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 240g)