Papas con Choco Gaditanas

Papas con choco is a Cádiz guiso, a cuttlefish and potato stew from the Atlantic edge of Andalucía. Choco is what Cádiz calls cuttlefish, and here it cooks with onion, green pepper, tomato, white wine, and enough potato to turn the sea into cocina de cuchara, proper spoon food. What makes this more than cuttlefish served beside potatoes is the thick liquor joining them in the bowl.

Give the sofrito its time, then crack the potatoes instead of cutting tidy cubes. Push the knife partway through each potato and lever the piece away so the edge tears. Those rough faces shed starch as they simmer, a few corners soften into the broth, and the guiso binds without flour. That's the method that decides it. If every potato keeps a perfect edge, you've been too polite with them.

Frozen cleaned cuttlefish works very well and is often what I buy when the fresh catch isn't convincing. Thaw it slowly in the refrigerator and dry it well. If cuttlefish cannot be found where you are, use the same weight of large squid, body and tentacles; the flavour is a little sweeter and less deep, and you should begin testing it for tenderness about 10 minutes sooner. No hace falta haber pisado España. My note in the margin is short: let two papas give themselves to the broth, and leave the others whole.