
Chef Dean
Apple Cinnamon Pancakes
Tender buttermilk pancakes folded with butter-glazed apple pieces and warm cinnamon, stacked high and drowning in maple syrup. This is Sunday morning the way it ought to be.
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A golden casserole of custard-soaked bread topped with buttery brown sugar streusel, assembled while the house sleeps and baked to puffed perfection while the coffee brews. This is Christmas morning without the chaos.
There is a particular genius in recipes that do their work while you rest. This overnight French toast belongs to that blessed category. You assemble it the night before, tucking thick slices of eggy bread into a bath of vanilla-scented custard, then slide the dish into the refrigerator and forget about it entirely. Morning arrives, you slide the pan into a hot oven, and forty-five minutes later your kitchen smells like cinnamon and brown butter and every good memory you've ever had of holiday breakfasts.
The technique owes everything to bread pudding. The long overnight soak allows the custard to penetrate every crevice of the bread, transforming what would be merely toast into something approaching dessert. The exterior crisps and caramelizes while the interior stays custardy and soft, yielding to the fork with that particular trembling quality that announces proper richness.
I've made this dish for fifty holiday mornings and watched it satisfy everyone from finicky children to grandmothers who claim to have no appetite before noon. It feeds a crowd, requires no standing at the stove flipping individual slices, and can be assembled by someone who had perhaps one too many glasses of wine at dinner. That last quality has proven particularly valuable.
Quantity
1 large loaf (about 1 pound)
cut into 1-inch thick slices
Quantity
8
Quantity
2 cups
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
3/4 cup
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly grated
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
4 tablespoons
softened, plus more for the dish
Quantity
3/4 cup
packed
Quantity
3/4 cup
Quantity
1 cup
roughly chopped
Quantity
for serving
warmed
Quantity
for dusting
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| brioche or challah breadcut into 1-inch thick slices | 1 large loaf (about 1 pound) |
| large eggs | 8 |
| whole milk | 2 cups |
| heavy cream | 1 cup |
| granulated sugar | 3/4 cup |
| pure vanilla extract | 2 tablespoons |
| ground cinnamon | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| nutmegfreshly grated | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| unsalted butter (for streusel)softened, plus more for the dish | 4 tablespoons |
| light brown sugarpacked | 3/4 cup |
| all-purpose flour | 3/4 cup |
| pecansroughly chopped | 1 cup |
| pure maple syrupwarmed | for serving |
| powdered sugar | for dusting |
| fresh berries (optional) | for serving |
Generously butter a 9x13-inch baking dish, making sure to coat the corners where custard tends to stick. The butter isn't merely for release. It will brown against the edges of the bread during baking, adding another layer of richness.
Arrange the bread slices in the prepared dish, overlapping them like shingles on a roof. You want the slices angled so each piece has some surface exposed to the oven's heat. Tuck them snugly. Two rows of overlapping slices typically fill the dish, though this depends on your loaf's size. Pack them in. They'll shrink as they absorb the custard.
Crack the eggs into a large bowl and whisk until the yolks and whites are fully combined. Add the milk, cream, granulated sugar, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt. Whisk vigorously until the sugar dissolves and everything is smooth and uniform in color. The custard should smell like the promise of something wonderful.
Pour the custard slowly and evenly over the arranged bread, making sure to saturate every slice. Use a spatula to gently press the bread into the liquid, encouraging absorption. Some will pool at the bottom. This is correct. Let the dish sit at room temperature for fifteen minutes, then press the bread down again. The slices should feel heavy and saturated when you lift a corner.
In a medium bowl, combine the softened butter, brown sugar, and flour. Work them together with your fingertips or a fork until the mixture resembles coarse, damp sand with some pea-sized lumps. Fold in the chopped pecans. The streusel should hold together when squeezed but crumble when released.
Scatter the streusel evenly over the soaked bread, making sure to cover the exposed corners and edges where the custard will bubble up. Cover the dish tightly with plastic wrap, pressing it gently against the streusel to secure everything. Refrigerate for at least eight hours or up to twenty-four. The overnight rest is not optional. It is where the magic happens.
Remove the dish from the refrigerator thirty to forty-five minutes before baking. Cold casseroles bake unevenly, with raw centers and overdone edges. While the dish warms, preheat your oven to 350°F with a rack in the center position.
Remove the plastic wrap and bake uncovered for forty-five to fifty minutes. The French toast is done when the streusel has turned deep golden brown, the edges are bubbling with caramelized custard, and the center has puffed up and feels set when you press it gently. A knife inserted in the center should come out with only the slightest dampness, not wet custard.
Let the French toast rest in the pan for ten minutes before serving. It will settle slightly as it cools. This is proper behavior. Dust generously with powdered sugar, which will melt into the warm surface and form a light glaze. Serve with warmed maple syrup on the side and fresh berries if you have them. Watch it disappear.
1 serving (about 191g)
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