Chef Graziella
Agnello al Forno con Patate
The Sunday lamb of Puglia, roasted with potatoes until they absorb every precious drop of rendered fat. In this dish, the potatoes become the reason you came to the table.
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Orecchiette con Pomodorini e Cacioricotta
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The pasta of Puglia dressed in nothing but sweet summer tomatoes, olive oil, and the sheep's milk cheese that belongs there. Parmigiano-Reggiano has no place in this bowl.
Main Dishes
Italian, Pugliese
Weeknight
Quick Meal
10 min
Active Time
20 min cook•30 min total
Yield4 servings
Every region guards its own cheese. In Emilia-Romagna, we reach for Parmigiano-Reggiano without thinking. But Puglia is not Emilia-Romagna. What grows there, what grazes there, what the shepherds make there, that is what belongs on the table. To put Parmigiano on this dish is to announce that you do not understand where the food comes from.
Cacioricotta is made from sheep's milk, sometimes goat's, using a method that falls between fresh ricotta and aged pecorino. It is firm enough to grate but milky and mild, with a slight tang that complements the sweetness of summer tomatoes. The cheese melts into the sauce rather than sitting on top. This is the difference between a dish that is whole and one that is merely assembled.
Orecchiette means little ears, and the shape is not decorative. Those small cups catch the sauce. The tomatoes nestle inside. The cheese clings to the ridged surface where Puglian grandmothers dragged the dough across wooden boards with their thumbs. Simple does not mean easy. It means every element must earn its place.
Orecchiette has been made in Puglia since at least the 12th century, likely introduced through Norman or Swabian influence. In the old quarter of Bari, on the Strada delle Orecchiette, women still sit outside their homes shaping the pasta by hand on wooden boards, selling it fresh to passersby. The technique has passed from grandmother to granddaughter for thirty generations.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
dried orecchiette
Quantity
1 pound
ripe cherry tomatoes
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
halved
extra virgin olive oil
Quantity
1/4 cup, plus more for finishing
garlic cloves
Quantity
2
lightly crushed
red pepper flakes
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
kosher salt
Quantity
to taste
cacioricotta cheese
Quantity
4 ounces
finely grated
fresh basil leaves
Quantity
small handful
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried orecchiette | 1 pound |
| ripe cherry tomatoeshalved | 1 1/2 pounds |
| extra virgin olive oil | 1/4 cup, plus more for finishing |
| garlic cloveslightly crushed | 2 |
| red pepper flakes | 1/4 teaspoon |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| cacioricotta cheesefinely grated | 4 ounces |
| fresh basil leaves | small handful |
Equipment Needed
- •Large skillet (12-inch)
- •Large pot for pasta
- •Fine grater for cheese
Instructions
- 1
Prepare the tomatoes
Place a large skillet over medium heat. Add the olive oil and the crushed garlic cloves. Let the garlic warm gently until fragrant, about two minutes. It must not brown. Remove and discard the garlic. What remains is perfume, not presence.
- 2
Cook the tomatoes
Add the halved cherry tomatoes to the oil in a single layer. Add the red pepper flakes and a generous pinch of salt. Cook without stirring for three minutes, then stir gently. Continue cooking until the tomatoes collapse and release their juices, another eight to ten minutes. Some will hold their shape. Some will burst. Both are correct. The sauce should be loose and bright, not thick like a long-cooked ragù.
The sweetness of cherry tomatoes in summer requires no embellishment. If your tomatoes are not ripe and fragrant, wait until they are. Pale winter tomatoes will give you a pale dish. - 3
Cook the orecchiette
Meanwhile, bring abundant salted water to a vigorous boil. The water should taste of the sea. Add the orecchiette and cook until tender but with pleasant resistance. This takes longer than you think, often twelve to fourteen minutes for dried orecchiette. The pasta should be cooked through but still have texture. Reserve one cup of pasta water before draining.
Orecchiette from Puglia is dense and sturdy. It requires patience. Taste a piece before draining. The center should offer slight resistance but not be chalky or hard. - 4
Marry pasta and sauce
Drain the pasta and add it directly to the skillet with the tomatoes. Toss vigorously over medium heat for one minute, adding splashes of pasta water as needed. The starchy water helps the sauce cling to the little cups of pasta. Remove from heat.
- 5
Finish with cheese
Add half the grated cacioricotta and toss again. The cheese should melt into the sauce, not sit on top in clumps. Tear the basil leaves and scatter them through. Taste for salt. Divide among warm bowls, drizzle with olive oil, and pass the remaining cheese at the table. Once the pasta is sauced, serve it promptly, inviting your guests and family to put off talking and start eating.
Chef Tips
- •Cacioricotta may be difficult to find outside Italian specialty shops. Aged ricotta salata is an acceptable substitute, though the flavor is sharper. Pecorino Romano is too aggressive for this gentle dish.
- •Do not quarter the cherry tomatoes. Halves collapse at different rates, giving you both sauce and intact pieces. This variety of texture is desirable.
- •The garlic is removed before the tomatoes are added. If you want more garlic flavor, you have misunderstood the dish. Two cloves, infused and discarded, is sufficient.
Advance Preparation
- •The tomato sauce can be made several hours ahead and left at room temperature. Do not refrigerate. Reheat gently while the pasta cooks.
- •Grate the cheese ahead and keep it covered. It dries quickly once grated.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 400g)
Calories
660 calories
Total Fat
24 g
Saturated Fat
7 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
16 g
Cholesterol
25 mg
Sodium
440 mg
Total Carbohydrates
89 g
Dietary Fiber
5 g
Sugars
5 g
Protein
23 g
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