Olivada Catalana

Olivada is Catalonia's black olive spread: ripe, brine-cured black olives, good olive oil and just enough garlic, crushed into a coarse, glossy paste. What keeps this Catalan preparation distinct from tapenade across the border is its plainness. Capers and anchovy aren't needed in this spare form. The olive carries the dish. Serve it on pa torrat, toasted country bread, beside grilled fish, or next to escalivada.

The crushing decides it. I stop while tiny pieces of olive are still visible, then work in the oil a little at a time. Run the machine without stopping and you'll get a smooth, greasy purée with none of the lively texture olivada should have. Thirty millilitres goes into the paste, and the last teaspoon belongs on top. Pésalo, no lo adivines, weigh it, don't guess.

If you can't find Catalan olives negres or Empeltre olives, choose any good naturally brine-cured black olive. Kalamata works at a pinch, though it makes a sharper, more wine-coloured spread. Avoid uniformly jet-black canned olives, which are mild and give you a dull paste. No hace falta haber pisado España. Keep the machine brief and the garlic modest, and it comes out. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.