Norwegian Pinnekjøtt (Lamb Ribs)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large stockpot with tight-fitting lid (at least 12-quart capacity)
• •Bundle of birch twigs or metal steamer rack
• •Large container for soaking (food-safe bucket or roasting pan)
• •Fine-mesh strainer
• •Fat separator
• •Warmed serving platter

Instructions

1. 1

   Inspect and prepare the lamb

   Examine your pinnekjøtt carefully. The ribs should be firm and dry with a slightly yellowish fat layer and deep burgundy meat. There should be no off odors, just a clean, salty, faintly gamey smell. If the ribs are very stiff and board-like, they'll need the full soaking time. Slightly more pliable ribs may be ready sooner. Cut between the ribs to separate them if they haven't been pre-cut, using a sharp heavy knife to work between the bones.

   Quality pinnekjøtt comes from mature sheep rather than young lamb. Look for ribs with good meat coverage and avoid pieces that are mostly bone and fat.
2. 2

   Begin the soaking process

   Place the separated ribs in a large container or clean bucket and cover completely with cold water. The ribs will float initially; weight them down with a plate if needed. Refrigerate and soak for 24 to 30 hours, changing the water three to four times throughout. Each water change draws out more salt and allows the meat to rehydrate. Taste a small piece of the fat after 24 hours. It should be pleasantly salty but not aggressively so. If it still puckers your mouth, continue soaking.

   The soaking water makes excellent stock for soup if you catch it during the first or second change when it's most flavorful but not overwhelmingly salty.
3. 3

   Prepare the birch twig rack

   Rinse the birch twigs thoroughly under cold water to remove any dust or debris. Soak them in cold water for at least one hour before cooking. This prevents scorching and releases their subtle aromatic compounds during steaming. The twigs should be sturdy enough to support the weight of the lamb without collapsing. Arrange them in a tight crosshatch pattern at the bottom of your largest pot, creating a platform at least two inches above the bottom.

   If birch twigs are unavailable, use a metal steamer rack or bamboo steamer. The dish will lack the faint birch aroma but will still be delicious. Some cooks substitute alder or apple wood chips wrapped in cheesecloth.
4. 4

   Set up the steaming pot

   Add water to the pot until it reaches just below the birch twig rack, roughly one and a half inches deep. The water must never touch the meat directly. Add the bay leaves and peppercorns to the water if using. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to maintain a steady simmer. You should see consistent steam rising but not violent bubbling that would splash water onto the meat.

5. 5

   Arrange the lamb for steaming

   Drain the soaked lamb ribs and pat them dry. Arrange them on the birch twig rack in a single layer with the meaty side facing up. Pieces can touch but shouldn't overlap significantly or they'll steam unevenly. If you have more ribs than fit in one layer, you'll need to steam in batches or use multiple pots. Cover tightly with a lid. If your lid doesn't seal well, place a clean kitchen towel over the pot before covering to trap steam more effectively.

   Tucking the towel edges up over the lid prevents them from catching fire on the burner. Safety first in any kitchen.
6. 6

   Steam until tender

   Steam the ribs for 2 to 3 hours, checking the water level every 30 minutes and adding more boiling water as needed. Never let the pot run dry. The lamb is ready when the meat has pulled back from the bones slightly and yields easily when pierced with a fork. A properly cooked rib will release from the bone with gentle pressure but shouldn't be falling apart. The fat should be translucent and the meat a deep, rich brown throughout.

   Keep a kettle of water at a simmer during steaming so you can replenish without dropping the temperature dramatically.
7. 7

   Optional browning step

   For a more robust presentation with some caramelization, transfer the steamed ribs to a sheet pan and place under a hot broiler for 3 to 5 minutes until the fat begins to blister and brown in spots. Watch carefully as the rendered fat can flare. This step is not traditional but adds textural contrast that modern diners appreciate. Some Norwegian families consider this heresy; others swear by it.

   If serving a crowd, the broiling step can be done while the first batch steams, keeping finished ribs warm in a low oven.
8. 8

   Prepare the cooking broth

   Strain the steaming liquid through a fine-mesh sieve into a fat separator or measuring cup. The liquid will be deeply flavored with lamb essence and birch. Let it settle for a few minutes, then pour off into a warm serving vessel, leaving the fat behind. This broth is traditionally served alongside in small cups for sipping between bites of meat. It's liquid gold. Don't discard it.

   The reserved fat is excellent for roasting potatoes or sautéing vegetables. It keeps refrigerated for weeks.
9. 9

   Serve family-style

   Transfer the ribs to a large warmed platter and bring to the table immediately. Provide coarse salt and pepper for individual seasoning, though most ribs will need nothing more. Serve with mashed rutabaga (kålrabistappe), boiled potatoes, and the cooking broth in small cups or a gravy boat. Each diner should receive several ribs, a generous mound of mash, potatoes for soaking up juices, and broth for sipping. This is fork food. The meat should slide away from bone without knife work.

Chef Tips

• •Source your pinnekjøtt from Scandinavian specialty shops or order online from Norwegian importers. The quality varies dramatically. Look for producers who use traditional curing methods rather than industrial shortcuts. The best ribs come from mature sheep raised on coastal Norwegian pastures where the salt air seasons the grass.
• •For large gatherings of 12 or more, plan on half a pound of bone-in ribs per person. The bones account for significant weight. Better to have leftovers than run short on Christmas.
• •The traditional accompaniment is kålrabistappe: rutabaga boiled until completely tender, then mashed with butter, cream, white pepper, and a touch of nutmeg. The sweetness of the rutabaga balances the intense saltiness of the lamb beautifully.
• •Leftover pinnekjøtt makes extraordinary hash the next morning. Shred the meat, crisp it in a skillet with diced potatoes and onions, and top with a fried egg. This is how Norwegian families have handled the day after Christmas for generations.
• •Pair with aquavit, served ice cold in small glasses, or a robust Norwegian beer. Wine struggles against the intensity of cured lamb, though a bold Rhône red can hold its own.
• •If you cannot find birch twigs, a stainless steel steamer insert works perfectly well. The birch adds subtle aromatic notes but the dish succeeds without them. What matters is gentle steam and patience.

Advance Preparation

• •The lamb must soak for 24-30 hours before cooking. Begin soaking two days before your planned serving time to allow flexibility.
• •Birch twigs can be soaked up to 24 hours ahead and stored in the refrigerator wrapped in damp towels.
• •Steamed pinnekjøtt can be held in a 200°F oven, loosely covered with foil, for up to 1 hour before serving without quality loss.
• •For very large gatherings, steam the lamb in batches the day before, refrigerate, then reheat gently by steaming for 20-30 minutes before serving. The flavor actually improves overnight.
• •The cooking broth can be made ahead and reheated. It keeps refrigerated for 5 days or frozen for 3 months.
• •Mashed rutabaga can be made up to 2 days ahead and reheated with a splash of cream. It holds better than mashed potatoes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 226g)