Nayarit Zarandeado Marinade (Adobo Zarandeado)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Cast iron comal or heavy skillet for toasting chiles
• •High-powered blender
• •Molcajete if finishing the paste by hand
• •Glass jar with lid for storing the adobo
• •Hinged fish grilling basket for pescado zarandeado

Instructions

1. 1

   Toast the chiles

   Heat a dry comal over medium. Toast the guajillo and ancho chiles one at a time, about 20 to 30 seconds per side, just until the skins puff and the color deepens. Toast the chile de arbol last if using it, and watch it because it burns quickly. Burned chile makes a bitter adobo. No me vengas con atajos.

2. 2

   Soften the chiles

   Put the toasted chiles in a bowl and cover them with hot water, not boiling water. Let them soak for 15 minutes, until the flesh softens and bends easily. Drain them and save 1/4 cup of the soaking liquid in case the blender needs help.

3. 3

   Char the aromatics

   On the same comal, roast the unpeeled garlic and onion slices until the onion has browned spots and the garlic skins are dark in places, about 6 to 8 minutes. Peel the garlic. This is not decoration. The char gives the paste the flavor of the grill before the fish even touches the fire.

4. 4

   Blend the adobo

   Put the softened chiles, peeled garlic, onion, mustard, soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, lime juice, orange juice, oil, mayonnaise, oregano, cumin, salt, and black pepper in a blender. Blend until the paste is completely smooth and thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. If the blades stall, add the reserved chile soaking liquid one tablespoon at a time. Do not turn it into soup.

5. 5

   Taste and adjust

   Taste the adobo. It should be salty, bright, garlicky, and clean with chile, because the fish will dilute it as it cooks. Add a little more salt or lime if it tastes flat. The mustard should sharpen the paste, not dominate it.

6. 6

   Use on fish

   Spread the adobo generously over a butterflied whole fish, especially into the cuts along the flesh. Let it sit 20 to 30 minutes before grilling over wood or charcoal. For Nayarit, use a firm Pacific fish like huachinango, pargo, robalo, or dorado. The adobo is made for fire, smoke, and fish skin that grips the grill.

Chef Tips

• •Use dried chile guajillo that is flexible and glossy, not brittle and dusty. If the chile cracks like old paper, it has been sitting too long. Ask the women at the market. They know which sack is fresh.
• •This adobo is not supposed to be fiery. Guajillo gives clean red color and gentle fruit. The chile de arbol is optional. Not all Mexican food is trying to burn your mouth. That idea is lazy.
• •For the fish, look for huachinango, pargo, robalo, or dorado, butterflied from the back if your fishmonger knows the Nayarit style. If you use salmon or tilapia, it will cook, yes, but it will not taste like the coast of Nayarit. A substitution is a compromise, not an upgrade.
• •The mayonnaise is there for cling and browning. One tablespoon. Do not drown the fish in it. The adobo should taste like chile, garlic, mustard, citrus, and smoke, not like a sandwich.

Advance Preparation

• •The adobo can be made 3 days ahead and refrigerated in a sealed glass jar. Stir before using because the oil may rise slightly.
• •Do not marinate fish overnight. The salt and citrus will tighten the flesh. Brush the fish 20 to 30 minutes before grilling. Así se hace y punto.
• •The chiles, garlic, and onion can be toasted the night before. Keep them covered at room temperature, then soak and blend the next day.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 65g)