
Chef Jeong-sun
Agwi-jjim (Braised Monkfish with Bean Sprouts)
Firm monkfish buried under crisp soybean sprouts, minari, and a red gochugaru sauce thickened at the end; Masan's market dish asks for heat, timing, and a steady hand.
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Thin-skinned Korean dumplings boiled until the wrappers turn glossy and the filling sets, served hot with a sharp soy-vinegar dip, light enough for a weeknight and careful enough to write down.
Mul-mandu is the dumpling that punishes hurry. Gun-mandu, the pan-fried one, forgives a thick wrapper and some roughness. Boiled mandu shows everything. The skin is thin, the filling is pale, and the seam has to hold while the water moves around it.
Master Seong-nyeo made us shape these smaller than we wanted, then boiled one from each student's tray. If it split, she didn't scold. She held up the empty wrapper and asked how much water we had left in the cabbage. The answer was always too much. Squeeze the tofu, cabbage, and sprouts until they stop weeping, and season the filling enough that one bite can stand on its own.
This is weeknight mandu, not a holiday manduguk (dumpling soup). You can use bought wrappers; 시대가 바뀌면 음식도 바뀌어야 해요 (when times change, food must change too). But don't overfill, don't leave air pockets, and don't crowd the pot. Thin-skinned mul-mandu should slip from chopsticks if you're careless, land in soy-vinegar dip, and taste clean: pork, tofu, chives, sesame, no shouting.
Tonight it asks for dry filling and a patient seam. Make a tray once, freeze half, and the next meal will be quick in the honest way.
Manduguk is strongly tied to Seollal (Lunar New Year), but mandu itself entered Korean food much earlier through northern routes during the Goryeo period (918-1392), when wheat dumplings from Yuan and Central Asian foodways took root. The late Goryeo song Ssanghwa-jeom names a dumpling shop, a small record showing that filled wheat foods were already part of city life. Boiled mul-mandu belongs to the everyday side of that family: smaller than holiday mandu, common in home kitchens, bunsik shops, and mandu houses where thin wrappers and a sharp soy-vinegar dip matter more than ceremony.
Quantity
40, about 8cm / 3 inches wide
thawed if frozen
Quantity
250g
finely chopped
Quantity
1 teaspoon total
3/4 teaspoon for cabbage, 1/4 teaspoon for filling
Quantity
200g
drained
Quantity
120g
trimmed
Quantity
250g
preferably not too lean
Quantity
80g or 3 scallions
finely chopped
Quantity
2 cloves (about 10g)
minced
Quantity
1 teaspoon
grated
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1
lightly beaten
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
3 liters
for boiling
Quantity
3 tablespoons
for dipping sauce
Quantity
1 1/2 tablespoons
for dipping sauce
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for dipping sauce
Quantity
1 tablespoon
finely sliced, for dipping sauce
Quantity
1 teaspoon
lightly crushed, for dipping sauce
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
for dipping sauce
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
for dipping sauce
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| thin round mandu wrappersthawed if frozen | 40, about 8cm / 3 inches wide |
| napa cabbagefinely chopped | 250g |
| fine sea salt3/4 teaspoon for cabbage, 1/4 teaspoon for filling | 1 teaspoon total |
| firm tofudrained | 200g |
| mung bean sprouts (sukju)trimmed | 120g |
| ground porkpreferably not too lean | 250g |
| buchu (Korean garlic chives) or scallionsfinely chopped | 80g or 3 scallions |
| garlicminced | 2 cloves (about 10g) |
| fresh gingergrated | 1 teaspoon |
| soy sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| toasted sesame oil | 1 tablespoon |
| large egglightly beaten | 1 |
| potato starch or cornstarch | 1 tablespoon |
| ground black pepper | 1/4 teaspoon |
| waterfor boiling | 3 liters |
| soy saucefor dipping sauce | 3 tablespoons |
| rice vinegarfor dipping sauce | 1 1/2 tablespoons |
| waterfor dipping sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| scallionfinely sliced, for dipping sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| toasted sesame seedslightly crushed, for dipping sauce | 1 teaspoon |
| gochugaru (Korean chili flakes) (optional)for dipping sauce | 1/2 teaspoon |
| sugar (optional)for dipping sauce | 1/4 teaspoon |
Toss the chopped cabbage with 3/4 teaspoon of the salt and let it stand 15 minutes. While it rests, wrap the tofu in a clean towel and press it under a plate. Squeeze the cabbage hard in the towel until no liquid runs freely, then squeeze the tofu the same way. Thin mul-mandu wrappers have no patience for wet filling; the water you leave in the bowl becomes the split seam in the pot.
Bring a small pot of water to a boil and cook the mung bean sprouts for 2 minutes with the lid off. Drain, cool just enough to handle, then squeeze them dry and chop them into 1cm pieces. Sprouts give mandu a clean crunch, but only if they are dry enough to join the filling instead of watering it down.
Put the pork, squeezed cabbage, squeezed tofu, chopped sprouts, buchu, garlic, ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil, egg, potato starch, pepper, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt in a bowl. Mix with your hand in one direction for 1 minute, until the filling turns tacky and holds together. That stickiness is not rough handling; it is the pork protein binding the filling so it cooks as one tender bite.
Cook 1 teaspoon of filling in simmering water or in the microwave until fully cooked, then taste it. Do not taste raw pork. The filling should be savory enough to season the plain wrapper around it, with garlic and sesame in the background. If it tastes dull, add 1 teaspoon more soy sauce, mix again, and write that down. Memory is a borrowed bowl.
Keep the wrappers covered with a damp towel so the edges do not crack. Put 2 level teaspoons, about 10g, of filling in the center of one wrapper. Wet the edge lightly with water, fold into a half-moon, press the air out from the center toward the sides, and seal firmly. Bring the two corners together if you like the round mul-mandu shape. Set each one on a starch-dusted tray and keep it covered.
Stir together the soy sauce, rice vinegar, water, scallion, sesame seeds, gochugaru if using, and sugar if your vinegar is sharp. The sauce should be bright and salty, not sweet. Mul-mandu is pale and clean, so the dip does the waking up without burying the dumpling.
Bring 3 liters of water to a lively boil in a wide pot. Lower in 12 to 14 dumplings and stir once with a spider or slotted spoon so they do not stick to the bottom. When the dumplings float and the wrappers turn glossy and slightly translucent, cook 60 to 90 seconds more, 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 minutes total for fresh dumplings. Cut open the first one, or check that the center reaches 71 C / 160 F. The first float is a signal to pay attention, not permission to serve raw filling.
Lift the mandu out with a spider, pause 5 seconds over the pot, then move them to shallow bowls. Do not pile them high, because the weight tears the thin skins. A little cooking water clinging to the wrappers is correct; it keeps them slippery. Eat them hot with the soy-vinegar dip, while the wrapper still has its soft pull.
1 serving (about 300g)
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