Nemea Moustalevria (Μουσταλευριά Νεμέας)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •heavy-bottomed saucepan, 3 litre
• •fine sieve lined with muslin or cheesecloth
• •shallow dessert dishes, 8 x 150ml
• •flat wooden spoon or heatproof spatula

Instructions

1. 1

   Clean the must

   Pour 1.5L fresh must into a 3L heavy pot. Bring it to a lively boil over medium heat, then lower the heat slightly and skim the gray froth as it rises, 10 to 15 minutes, until the surface stays mostly clear and the smell is sweet rather than grassy. Strain through muslin into a jug and measure 1.2L cleaned must for the pudding. Keep any extra for thinning.

   If you bought already clarified must, warm it once and strain it, then measure 1.2L. If you are short by more than a spoonful, top up with clarified must or pure unsweetened grape juice.
2. 2

   Toast the toppings

   Toast the sesame seeds in a dry pan for 2 to 3 minutes, shaking the pan, until they smell nutty and turn pale gold. Toast the walnuts in the same pan for 4 minutes, then let both cool. Keep the cinnamon separate for the finish.

3. 3

   Whisk the flour

   Let the cleaned must cool until it is only warm. Pour 300ml of it into a bowl and whisk in the flour and salt until the mixture is completely smooth, with no dry pockets at the bottom. Flour goes into cool must first; add it straight to a hot pot and you'll chase lumps until supper.

   Rub a little of the mixture between your fingers. If you feel flour grains or see lumps, whisk longer before it reaches the heat.
4. 4

   Cook the pudding

   Pour the remaining 900ml cleaned must into the pot and warm it over medium-low heat until small bubbles gather at the edges. Whisk in the flour mixture in a thin stream, then switch to a flat wooden spoon or heatproof spatula. Cook, stirring constantly, 12 to 15 minutes, until the pudding is glossy, thick, and the spoon leaves a clean path across the bottom for a second. Taste a little; the raw flour taste should be gone.

5. 5

   Pour and finish

   Rinse 8 shallow dessert dishes with cold water and leave them damp. Pour in the hot moustalevria, tap each dish once on the counter, and sprinkle the surface with walnuts, sesame, and cinnamon while it is still tacky. Let it stand at room temperature for 1 hour, then chill until set, about 1 more hour.

6. 6

   Serve and store

   Serve at room temperature or chilled, with a little more cinnamon if you like. Cover and refrigerate for up to 4 days. The walnuts soften as they sit, so for the cleanest bite, keep a little of the toasted topping aside and add it just before serving.

Chef Tips

• •Fresh must is seasonal. In Greece it appears at the wine press in September and early October. Outside that window, frozen clarified must from a winemaker is the best choice. Bottled grape juice works only if it is pure and not from concentrate, but it won't have the same grip.
• •I don't ask you to use the old ash method unless a trusted winemaker has already clarified the must. At home, boil, skim, strain, and measure. The pudding will be clean and safe.
• •Cook past the first thickening. Flour swells early but tastes raw for a few minutes longer, so keep stirring until the shine comes up and the spoon leaves a path.
• •Moustalevria is nistisimo, part of the fasting table by nature. Serve it after beans, greens, or a simple oil-based meal, not as a heavy sweet. Λίγα και καλά.

Advance Preparation

• •Clarify the must up to 2 days ahead and keep it covered in the refrigerator.
• •Toast the walnuts and sesame up to 3 days ahead, then store them airtight so they stay crisp.
• •The finished pudding needs at least 2 hours to set and keeps 4 days covered in the refrigerator.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 180g)