Mock Eel (うなぎもどき, Unagi Modoki)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Oroshigane grater, or the finest holes of a box grater
• •Wide frying pan
• •Small saucepan
• •Pastry brush
• •Wire rack

Instructions

1. 1

   Press the tofu

   Wrap the tofu in a clean cloth, set a light weight on top, and press it for 20 to 30 minutes. You want it damp, not wet. Too much water loosens the paste and makes it sputter in the oil, and then everyone blames the tofu, poor innocent block.

   Do not press it until chalky. A little moisture keeps the inside tender, but free water is what breaks the shape.
2. 2

   Grate the roots

   Finely grate the yamaimo, lotus root, and burdock. Grate the burdock last, because it darkens quickly once cut. The yamaimo's stickiness is not a nuisance here; it is the binder that gives the mock eel its soft pull.

3. 3

   Make the paste

   Crumble the pressed tofu into a bowl and mash it until smooth. Stir in the grated yamaimo, lotus root, burdock, potato starch, and salt. The mixture should be thick, sticky, and able to mound on a spoon. If it slumps like batter, add another teaspoon of potato starch; if it is stiff and dry, add a teaspoon of dashi.

   This is the point to fix the texture. Once it touches the nori and oil, the dish will only reveal the decision you made here.
4. 4

   Shape on nori

   Lay the nori rectangles shiny-side down. Spread a modest layer of paste over each piece, leaving a narrow border, then score shallow lines down the paste with the back of a knife to suggest the grain of eel. The nori acts as the skin, and the scoring lets the glaze settle into little ridges instead of sliding off.

5. 5

   Simmer the tare

   Combine the soy sauce, mirin, sake, sugar, and konbu-shiitake dashi in a small pan. Bring it to a lively simmer and cook until glossy and lightly thickened, 6 to 8 minutes. The alcohol must cook off and the sugar must dissolve fully, or the glaze tastes sharp at the front and flat at the finish.

6. 6

   Fry gently

   Heat 1/2 inch of oil to 170°C. Slide in the pieces paste-side down first and fry until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Turn carefully and fry the nori side for 30 to 45 seconds. Paste-side down sets the shape first, so the nori stays attached instead of peeling away like a bad idea.

7. 7

   Glaze and finish

   Drain the pieces briefly on a rack, then brush both sides with tare while they are still warm and glossy. Return them to a clean pan over low heat for a minute if you want the glaze more lacquered. Do not drown them. Kabayaki tare should shine on the surface, not bury the vegetables that earned their place.

8. 8

   Serve with restraint

   Arrange two pieces per person, slightly overlapping, and scatter with sesame seeds and a small pinch of sanshō if you like. Serve with rice and a clear soup. The dish is rich from the glaze and oil, so leave space around it and let the plate breathe.

Chef Tips

• •Use true yamaimo or nagaimo if you can find it. A floury potato will not do the same work; the mountain yam's slippery stretch is the structure of the dish.
• •For the dashi, soak one small piece of konbu and two dried shiitake in 1 cup cold water for several hours, then warm gently and strain. This is the temple-kitchen foundation, not a compromise.
• •Keep the oil moderate. Too hot and the outside darkens before the paste sets; too cool and the pieces drink oil. Aim for a steady, quiet bubbling around the edges.
• •The tare should be glossy, not thick like syrup. It will tighten more as it cools, and a heavy glaze hides the clean vegetable flavor.

Advance Preparation

• •The konbu-shiitake dashi can be made up to two days ahead and kept refrigerated.
• •The kabayaki tare can be made three days ahead. Warm it gently before brushing so it coats thinly and evenly.
• •Press the tofu earlier in the day, but shape the pieces just before frying. Nori softens if it sits too long under the paste.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 175g)