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Created by Chef Makoa
Tonga's mei, firm breadfruit from the canoe-crop family, sliced thin and fried crisp for the picnic table: golden chips, salted hot, easy to share, kin to Hawaiʻi's ʻulu.
The canoe carried more than food; it carried relatives. In Tonga, my cousins call breadfruit mei, a canoe crop rooted in the fonua, the land, with a green skin and a patient heart. Back home in Hawaiʻi we say ʻulu; Sāmoa keeps ʻulu too; Tahiti says ʻuru; the Cook Islands say kuru. One ocean, one canoe, one root, and still this plate belongs to Tonga by name and hand.
I remember standing near a Tongan auntie's frying pot after a church picnic, trying to look useful and mostly being useful only for eating the broken pieces. She sliced the mei thin, held it in water so it stayed clean and pale, dried it like she meant it, then let the oil do the fast work. Salt went on while the chips were still hot, because hot salt sticks, she said, and that's the kind of lesson you remember.
This is deep food brought into an everyday kitchen. The breadfruit tree is older than the fryer, older than the metal pot, older than the picnic cooler, but Tonga still gets to eat it crisp at game day and potluck without anyone scolding the table. Cook it with respect, name the island, and keep the chips abundant. If one more cousin walks in, good. Make room.
Quantity
1 large, about 2 to 3 pounds
Quantity
enough to cover
for holding the sliced mei
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for the holding water
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| firm mature green breadfruit (mei) | 1 large, about 2 to 3 pounds |
| cold waterfor holding the sliced mei | enough to cover |
| sea saltfor the holding water | 1 tablespoon |
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