
Chef Dean
Apple Cinnamon Pancakes
Tender buttermilk pancakes folded with butter-glazed apple pieces and warm cinnamon, stacked high and drowning in maple syrup. This is Sunday morning the way it ought to be.
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A golden, puffed casserole of custardy bread, savory sausage, and melted cheese that you assemble the night before and slide into the oven while the coffee brews. This is how smart cooks handle holiday mornings.
The breakfast strata represents everything I love about American cooking: practical, generous, and built for gathering. It's a dish that respects your time. You do the work when you have it, Christmas Eve perhaps, then reap the rewards when you don't, Christmas morning with family underfoot and presents waiting.
This style of layered breakfast casserole has roots stretching back to Italian bread puddings and French pain perdu, but Americans made it their own somewhere in the church fellowship halls and community cookbooks of the mid-twentieth century. It became the dish you brought to potlucks, the recipe neighbors traded. There's wisdom in that heritage.
The overnight rest isn't optional. It's essential. During those hours in the refrigerator, the custard penetrates every crevice of bread, transforming what would be a soggy mess into something cohesive and tender. The starches relax. The flavors marry. When you bake it the next morning, the top puffs dramatically and turns golden while the interior stays creamy and rich.
I've taught this recipe to students terrified of feeding a crowd at breakfast. They all leave converts. The strata does the hard work for you. Your job is simply to brown some sausage, whisk some eggs, and trust the process.
Quantity
1 pound
Quantity
1 pound
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 medium
diced
Quantity
3 cloves
minced
Quantity
10
Quantity
2 1/2 cups
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly grated
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
3 cups
shredded
Quantity
1 cup
shredded
Quantity
2 tablespoons
minced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| day-old crusty bread (French, Italian, or sourdough) | 1 pound |
| bulk breakfast sausage | 1 pound |
| unsalted butter | 2 tablespoons |
| yellow oniondiced | 1 medium |
| garlicminced | 3 cloves |
| large eggs | 10 |
| whole milk | 2 1/2 cups |
| heavy cream | 1 cup |
| Dijon mustard | 2 teaspoons |
| nutmegfreshly grated | 1/2 teaspoon |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1/2 teaspoon |
| sharp cheddar cheeseshredded | 3 cups |
| Gruyère cheeseshredded | 1 cup |
| fresh chivesminced | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh thyme leaves | 1 tablespoon |
Cut the bread into 1-inch cubes, crusts and all. You want about 10 cups. If your bread is fresh, spread the cubes on a sheet pan and let them dry at room temperature for several hours, or toast them in a 300°F oven for 15 minutes until slightly dried but not browned. Stale bread absorbs custard without dissolving into mush. This step matters more than any other.
Set a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the sausage, breaking it into rough crumbles with a wooden spoon. Cook until deeply browned and cooked through, about 8 minutes. Don't rush this. Those caramelized bits carry tremendous flavor into the final dish. Transfer the sausage to a bowl, leaving the rendered fat in the pan.
Reduce heat to medium and add the butter to the sausage fat. Once it foams, add the diced onion. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, perhaps 30 seconds more. The kitchen should smell inviting now. Scrape the onion mixture into the bowl with the sausage and let everything cool while you prepare the custard.
Crack the eggs into a large bowl and whisk until the yolks and whites are completely combined. Add the milk, cream, mustard, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Whisk vigorously until smooth and homogeneous. The mustard won't be detectable in the finished dish, but it adds a subtle depth that makes people ask what your secret is. Taste the custard. It should be well-seasoned. Remember, you're flavoring a large volume of bread.
Butter a 9x13-inch baking dish generously. Scatter half the bread cubes in the bottom. Top with half the sausage mixture, then half the combined cheeses. Sprinkle with half the herbs. Repeat: remaining bread, remaining sausage, remaining cheese, remaining herbs. Pour the custard slowly and evenly over everything. Use a spatula to press the bread gently into the liquid, ensuring all cubes make contact. The bread should be submerged or at least thoroughly moistened.
Cover the dish tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up to 24 hours. This overnight rest is not a suggestion. The bread needs time to absorb the custard fully. Rushing this step produces a strata with dry spots and an uneven texture. Patience rewards you here.
Remove the strata from the refrigerator 30 to 45 minutes before baking. A cold dish hitting a hot oven bakes unevenly, the edges overcooking before the center sets. Preheat your oven to 350°F while the strata tempers. Remove the plastic wrap.
Bake uncovered for 50 to 55 minutes, until the top is puffed and golden brown, the edges are bubbling, and a knife inserted into the center comes out clean. The strata will rise dramatically, like a soufflé, and smell deeply savory, all browned cheese and herbs. Let it rest for 10 minutes before cutting. It will deflate slightly during this time. This is normal and expected.
Cut into squares and serve hot, with fresh fruit alongside and perhaps some simply dressed greens to cut the richness. This feeds a crowd and holds well on a buffet for 30 minutes or so. For larger gatherings, make two stratas. They're no more work than one and ensure everyone gets the good corner pieces with extra crispy cheese.
1 serving (about 100g)
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