Macedonian Tahini Halva (Halvas Tahiniou, Χαλβάς Ταχινιού)

Halvas Tahiniou belongs to Macedonia, and especially to Thessaloniki's sweet counters: a dense sesame loaf cut in pale, crumbly slices, sometimes plain, sometimes marbled with cocoa or studded with almonds. It is not the semolina halva from the pot. This one is tahini and boiled syrup, worked just enough to turn from glossy paste into a sliceable block.

The whole sweet depends on the syrup. Cook it to 118C, the firm thread stage, then fold it into warm tahini with a steady hand. Too cool and the halva stays sticky. Too hot or beaten too long, and it turns dry and harshly grainy. The good texture should break under the knife in soft flakes, then melt into sesame and vanilla on the tongue.

I make the plain version first because it teaches your hand what the sweet wants. After that you can add cocoa or almonds, both old shop-counter habits, but don't bury the sesame. Λίγα και καλά: good tahini, clean sugar work, and patience while it sets.