Macedonian Melitzanosalata (Μελιτζανοσαλάτα Μακεδονίτικη)

Macedonian melitzanosalata is not a smooth purée and it isn't a pale dip from a packet. It is eggplant blackened over flame until the skin blisters, the flesh slumps, and the kitchen smells faintly smoky, then chopped and beaten with garlic, vinegar, parsley, and good olive oil.

The method that decides it is the charring. An oven will cook the eggplant, yes, but it won't give you the bitter-smoky edge that makes this version itself. Hold the eggplants over gas flame, charcoal, or a very hot grill until they collapse in your tongs. Then drain them, because watery eggplant turns the salad dull and loose.

I keep this one plain because that is its strength. Λίγα και καλά: a few things, and good ones. Serve it at room temperature with bread, olives, and a glass of ouzo or tsipouro, and let the smoke do the talking.