
Chef Takumi
Amerikan Doggu (アメリカンドッグ, corn dog)
A sausage on a stick, sweet batter, clean hot oil, and no cornmeal. Amerikan doggu is festival food made plain, with the batter thick enough to cling.
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Korokke pan is not a trick of the bakery case. Make one good potato croquette, keep the shell crisp, and let the soft bread catch the sauce.
Korokke pan is humble food with one proud demand: the croquette must still have a crisp shell when it meets the bread. The roll is soft, the potato is creamy, the tonkatsu sauce is dark and sharp-sweet. If the korokke goes in soggy, the whole sandwich becomes tired before you take the first bite.
The first secret is dry potato. Boil the potatoes in their skins if you can, peel them hot, then mash them while the steam of the cooking water leaves the flesh. Wet potato makes a heavy filling and weakens the crust. Dry potato holds together, tastes clean, and gives you that good contrast against the panko.
This is yōshoku, Japan's old habit of taking Western forms and making them belong at the Japanese table. We tuck korokke into koppepan, a soft long roll, with shredded cabbage and tonkatsu sauce. Nothing fancy. Nothing hidden. The bread should be tender enough to fold around the croquette, but not so sweet that it fights the sauce. If you can't find koppepan, use the plainest soft hot dog roll you can buy, and don't apologize to the sandwich.
Korokke entered Japan in the Meiji era as a relative of the European croquette, then settled into yōshoku, the Japanese style of adapting Western dishes for local tastes. By the early twentieth century it was a common prepared food in city shops, cheaper and more everyday than its foreign ancestor. Korokke pan grew from the postwar spread of soft bakery rolls such as koppepan, making the croquette portable enough for school lunches, bakeries, and quick meals.
Quantity
600g
Quantity
1 small
finely chopped
Quantity
1 tablespoon, plus more for frying
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons, plus 1/2 cup for dredging
Quantity
1
beaten
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
4
Quantity
1 cup
finely shredded
Quantity
4 to 6 tablespoons
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| starchy potatoes, such as russet or danshaku | 600g |
| yellow onionfinely chopped | 1 small |
| neutral oil | 1 tablespoon, plus more for frying |
| soy sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| white pepper | 1/4 teaspoon |
| all-purpose flour | 2 tablespoons, plus 1/2 cup for dredging |
| large eggbeaten | 1 |
| panko breadcrumbs | 1 cup |
| koppepan rolls or plain soft hot dog rolls | 4 |
| cabbagefinely shredded | 1 cup |
| tonkatsu sauce | 4 to 6 tablespoons |
| Japanese mustard (optional) | to taste |
Put the potatoes in a pot, cover with cold water, and simmer until a skewer slides through without resistance, about 20 minutes. Starting in cold water cooks them evenly from edge to center. Drain, peel while hot if needed, and return them to the warm pot for a minute so surface moisture escapes.
Warm 1 tablespoon oil in a skillet and cook the onion over medium heat until soft and lightly golden, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the soy sauce and sugar, and cook until the pan looks nearly dry. This takes the raw bite out of the onion and gives the potato a quiet savory base without making the filling wet.
Mash the hot potatoes roughly, leaving a few small pieces so the center doesn't become paste. Fold in the onion, salt, white pepper, and 2 tablespoons flour. Shape into 4 oval patties about the length of the rolls, then chill for 10 minutes. Cooling firms the starch so the patties hold their shape in the oil.
Set out flour, beaten egg, and panko in three shallow dishes. Coat each patty lightly in flour, dip in egg, then press into panko until covered all over. The flour helps the egg cling, and the egg gives the panko something to hold, so the crust stays attached instead of floating away in the oil.
Heat 2 inches of oil to 175 C. Fry the korokke in batches until deep golden and crisp, about 2 minutes per side. The filling is already cooked, so you're setting the crust, not cooking the center from raw. Drain on a rack, not paper, so the underside stays crisp.
Split the koppepan lengthwise without cutting all the way through. Brush the inside with tonkatsu sauce, add a small bed of shredded cabbage, and tuck in one hot korokke. Spoon a little more sauce over the top. The cabbage keeps the crust from sitting directly against the bread and gives a clean crunch against the creamy potato.
Serve the rolls while the korokke is still crisp and the sauce has just begun to soak into the bread. Add Japanese mustard if you like its heat, but keep it light. This sandwich is about contrast: soft roll, sharp sauce, crisp panko, creamy center.
1 serving (about 290g)
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