
Chef Jeong-sun
Albaechu-mul-kimchi (Baby Cabbage Water Kimchi)
Tender baby napa cabbage in a clear pear-garlic brine, lightly fermented until the broth turns clean and bright, the summer kimchi a beginner can make without a kimjang floor.
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A measured kimchi seasoning paste for cabbage, radish, or cucumber kimchi, deep red with gochugaru, garlic, ginger, salted shrimp, pear, and rice paste that helps every leaf season evenly.
Kimchi yangnyeom lives or dies by balance before it ever touches a cabbage leaf. Too much garlic and the kimchi tastes harsh. Too much fish sauce and it turns heavy. Too much sweet pear and it ferments fast and loose. My teacher made us taste the paste on a strip of salted cabbage, never from the bowl, because kimchi seasoning only tells the truth when it meets the vegetable it is meant to carry.
This is not a side sauce. It is the working paste for kimchi, the red mixture rubbed between napa cabbage leaves, folded through cubed radish, or loosened for cucumber kimchi. The rice paste is there to bind the gochugaru (Korean chili flakes) so it clings instead of falling grainy into the jar. The radish and pear give clean sweetness and moisture. Salted shrimp, saeujeot, and fish sauce give the deep savory floor that plain salt cannot build alone.
I give you enough for two large salted napa cabbages, about 3 kg before salting, or the same weight of radish and mixed vegetables. Mix it, let it rest until the chili softens, then taste it with the vegetable. 손맛 is real. I still measure it, so it can be handed on.
Kimchi seasoning paste in its red form is younger than kimchi itself, because chili peppers reached Korea after the Columbian exchange and became common in kimchi only in the late Joseon period. Before widespread chili use, many kimchi styles were white or lightly seasoned with salt, garlic, ginger, and brined seafood, a family still visible in baek-kimchi (white kimchi) and dongchimi (radish water kimchi). The modern red yangnyeom belongs especially to kimjang, the late-autumn communal making of winter kimchi, which UNESCO recognized as intangible cultural heritage in 2013.
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
Quantity
1 1/4 cups
medium heat if possible
Quantity
1/2 cup
anchovy or sand lance
Quantity
1/3 cup
finely chopped
Quantity
1 cup
grated and lightly squeezed
Quantity
1/2 pear, about 1/2 cup
peeled and grated
Quantity
1 small, about 1/3 cup
grated
Quantity
10 cloves, about 3 tablespoons
minced or grated
Quantity
1 1/2 tablespoons
grated
Quantity
2 tablespoons
or 1 tablespoon sugar
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for fresh quick kimchi only
Quantity
6
cut into 1-inch lengths
Quantity
1 small
julienned
Quantity
1 cup
for stuffing napa cabbage kimchi
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| sweet rice flour (chapssal-garu) | 1/2 cup |
| water | 1 1/2 cups |
| coarse gochugaru (Korean chili flakes)medium heat if possible | 1 1/4 cups |
| Korean fish sauce (aekjeot)anchovy or sand lance | 1/2 cup |
| salted shrimp (saeujeot)finely chopped | 1/3 cup |
| Korean radish (mu)grated and lightly squeezed | 1 cup |
| Korean pearpeeled and grated | 1/2 pear, about 1/2 cup |
| yellow oniongrated | 1 small, about 1/3 cup |
| garlicminced or grated | 10 cloves, about 3 tablespoons |
| fresh gingergrated | 1 1/2 tablespoons |
| maesil-cheong (green plum syrup)or 1 tablespoon sugar | 2 tablespoons |
| toasted sesame seeds (optional)for fresh quick kimchi only | 1 tablespoon |
| scallionscut into 1-inch lengths | 6 |
| carrot (optional)julienned | 1 small |
| Korean radish matchsticks (optional)for stuffing napa cabbage kimchi | 1 cup |
Whisk the sweet rice flour and water together in a small pot until smooth. Set it over medium heat and stir for 4 to 5 minutes, until it turns glossy and thick enough to leave a trail from the spoon. This paste helps the gochugaru bloom and cling to the vegetables; without it, the seasoning can taste sandy and separate in the jar.
Scrape the warm rice paste into a large bowl and stir in the gochugaru. Let it sit 15 minutes. The flakes should darken from dusty red to a deeper, damp red. This waiting is not decoration; hydrated chili spreads evenly and stains each cabbage leaf without dry specks.
Stir in the fish sauce and chopped salted shrimp. Chop the saeujeot finely so one bite does not get all the salt and another gets none. Taste a little paste on a piece of salted cabbage or radish if you have it ready. It should be salty and strong, because the vegetable will dilute it, but it should not bite like straight brine.
Add the grated radish, pear, onion, garlic, ginger, and maesil-cheong. Mix with a gloved hand or sturdy spoon until the paste is even, thick, and spreadable. The pear sweetens, the radish loosens the paste, and the onion rounds the garlic. Keep the sugar modest. Kimchi should ferment cleanly, not race toward sweetness.
Fold in the scallions, and add the carrot and radish matchsticks if you are making stuffed napa cabbage kimchi. Do this at the end so the cut vegetables keep their shape. If you are using the paste for cubed radish kimchi, leave out the extra matchsticks and mix the paste directly through the salted radish cubes.
Rest the paste another 10 minutes, then taste again on the salted vegetable it will season. If it tastes flat, add fish sauce 1 tablespoon at a time. If it is too sharp with garlic, let it stand 20 minutes before judging; garlic softens as it sits. If it is too thick to rub between cabbage leaves, loosen it with 1 to 2 tablespoons of the salted vegetable brine, not plain water, so the seasoning stays balanced.
Use the yangnyeom right away for salted napa cabbage, kkakdugi (cubed radish kimchi), or oi-sobagi (stuffed cucumber kimchi). For make-ahead, pack it into a clean airtight container, press plastic wrap directly on the surface, and refrigerate up to 3 days. Do not leave seafood-based paste at room temperature except during active kimchi mixing.
1 serving (about 70g)
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