
Chef Zohra
Atay b Chiba (Moroccan Wormwood Tea)
The cold-evening cousin of mint tea: gunpowder green tea brewed with chiba, the bitter winter herb Moroccans use when na'na is scarce and the house needs warming.
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A Marrakech winter infusion: dried galangal brewed with cinnamon, ginger, cloves, and black pepper until dark and warming, then sweetened and poured hot into small glasses.
When the cold comes into Marrakech at night, it doesn't ask permission. It slips through the alleys, under the wool djellabas, right into the bones. Then you look for the copper cauldron and the dark drink inside it: khoudenjal, sharp with galangal, sweet enough to soften the throat, hot enough to send you back into the square with courage.
The root is the point. Dried galangal gives the drink its peppery, camphor-like bite, stronger and more medicinal than ginger, and the other spices stand behind it. Don't boil it to death. Simmer it gently, covered, so the roots and bark give what they have without turning harsh. Then let it sit a little. Infusions need patience, not force.
Serve it in small glasses, very hot and sweet, with dates or chebakia if the table has them. This is la cuisine du lien, the cooking of connection, even when the dish is a drink. One glass warms the hands. A second makes room for the person who just arrived.
Khoudenjal belongs especially to Marrakech's cold-weather street-drink culture, where herbalists and vendors have long served spiced infusions from large copper cauldrons in the medina, including around Jemaa el-Fna. Galangal reached North Africa through older Indian Ocean and Red Sea spice routes that fed Moroccan apothecaries and souks from the medieval period onward, though the exact date this Marrakech drink took its present form is not firmly recorded. Like many Moroccan herbal preparations, its blend changes by seller and household, but dried galangal remains the identifying root.
Quantity
1.2 liters
Quantity
15g
lightly crushed
Quantity
1
Quantity
8 thin slices
or 1 tsp dried ginger
Quantity
4
Quantity
4
Quantity
2
lightly crushed
Quantity
3 tbsp, or to taste
Quantity
1 tbsp
added off the heat
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| water | 1.2 liters |
| dried galangal root (khoudenjal)lightly crushed | 15g |
| cinnamon stick | 1 |
| fresh gingeror 1 tsp dried ginger | 8 thin slices |
| whole cloves | 4 |
| black peppercorns | 4 |
| green cardamom pods (optional)lightly crushed | 2 |
| sugar | 3 tbsp, or to taste |
| honey (optional)added off the heat | 1 tbsp |
Put the dried galangal on a board and tap it with a pestle or the side of a heavy knife until the pieces crack. You aren't making powder. You only want to open the root so the water can enter and pull out its peppery warmth.
Add the water, galangal, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, peppercorns, and cardamom if using to a small pot. Bring just to a boil, then lower the heat at once. Let it murmur gently, covered, for 20 minutes, until the liquid turns amber-brown and smells sharp, sweet, and woody.
Turn off the heat and let the infusion sit for 5 minutes. Strain it through a fine sieve, then stir in the sugar while it is still hot. Add honey only off the heat if you want that rounder sweetness.
Pour into small glasses and taste. It should be dark, sweet, and warming, with the galangal coming first and the cinnamon behind it. If it bites too hard, add a little more hot water. If it tastes thin, return the spices to the pot and let them sit a few minutes more. La balance est dans les yeux, and here also in the throat.
1 serving (about 200g)
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