
Chef Dimitra
Agrafa Batzina (Μπατζίνα), Courgette and Feta Pie
Agrafa's batzina is the no-phyllo pie of Karditsa: grated courgette, feta, eggs, milk, and flour poured thin into a hot oiled tapsi.
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Crete's little Easter cheese pies are pinched open around sweet fresh myzithra, mint, and cinnamon, with a tender olive-oil dough that stays soft after baking.
Kalitsounia Kritis are Crete's little cheese pies, made for Easter tables and name-day trays, open at the top so the sweet fresh myzithra shows. They are not one more generic cheese pastry. Crete is their surname: soft dough, barely salted cheese, mint, cinnamon, and those pinched edges that make each one look like a small lamp or flower.
The filling decides them. Fresh myzithra must be sweet, mild, and well drained before it meets the sugar and egg. If the cheese is wet, it runs and the dough softens around it; if it is too salty or aged, the whole pastry loses its island character. Λίγα και καλά: good cheese, a little mint, a steady hand.
I make them small, as they are meant to be, because a kalitsouni should fit in the hand and disappear in three bites. The dough is forgiving, the pinching comes quickly after the first few, and the oven does the rest. A recipe written down is a recipe saved, especially for these festive little things that too often lived only in someone's fingers.
Kalitsounia belong to Crete's broad family of small pies, with local versions filled with fresh cheese, greens, or herbs and baked or fried depending on the village. The sweet open cheese form is strongly tied to Easter, when fresh spring milk made new myzithra available after the Lenten fast. In eastern Crete, close relatives are often called lychnarakia, little lamps, after their pinched shape.
Quantity
500g
plus extra for rolling
Quantity
10g
Quantity
80g
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
120ml
Quantity
120ml
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 teaspoon
finely grated
Quantity
500g
well drained
Quantity
80g
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 tablespoon
finely chopped
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
finely grated
Quantity
1 yolk plus 1 tablespoon milk
for glazing
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
as needed
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flourplus extra for rolling | 500g |
| baking powder | 10g |
| sugar | 80g |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| extra virgin olive oil | 120ml |
| whole milk | 120ml |
| fresh orange juice | 60ml |
| large egg | 1 |
| orange zestfinely grated | 1 teaspoon |
| fresh sweet myzithra (myzithra glykeia)well drained | 500g |
| sugar | 80g |
| large egg | 1 |
| fresh mintfinely chopped | 1 tablespoon |
| ground cinnamon | 1/2 teaspoon |
| lemon zestfinely grated | 1 teaspoon |
| egg yolk beaten with milkfor glazing | 1 yolk plus 1 tablespoon milk |
| sesame seeds (optional) | 2 tablespoons |
| Greek thyme honey (optional) | as needed |
Set the fresh myzithra in a fine sieve for 30 minutes if it looks wet. Kalitsounia depend on a filling that sits softly without running, so drain it before you sweeten it. This is the one method that decides the pie.
Whisk the flour, baking powder, sugar, and salt in a wide bowl. In another bowl whisk the olive oil, milk, orange juice, egg, and orange zest, then pour them into the flour. Mix until a soft dough gathers, adding only a dusting of flour if it sticks heavily to your fingers.
Knead lightly for 1 minute, just until smooth. Cover the dough and let it rest for 20 minutes, so it rolls without shrinking back like a stubborn child.
Mash the drained myzithra with the sugar, egg, mint, cinnamon, and lemon zest. Taste it. It should be sweet but still taste of fresh cheese, with mint coming through at the end.
Heat the oven to 180C. Line two baking sheets with parchment. Roll the dough on a lightly floured surface to about 3mm thick, then cut 10cm rounds. Gather and reroll the scraps once.
Place 1 heaped tablespoon of filling in the center of each round. Lift the dough edge around the filling and pinch it at regular points to make a small open flower, leaving the cheese visible in the middle. Press firmly enough that the points hold their shape.
Brush the dough edges lightly with the egg yolk and milk. Sprinkle with sesame seeds if you like. Bake for 22 to 25 minutes, until the pastry is pale gold at the edges and the cheese filling is just set, not dry.
Let the kalitsounia cool for at least 20 minutes before serving. Eat them warm or at room temperature, with a thread of thyme honey if your table likes them sweeter.
1 serving (about 64g)
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