Jwipo-twigim (Fried Dried Filefish)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Small heavy pot or wok
• •Deep-fry thermometer
• •Wire rack set over a tray
• •Kitchen scissors

Instructions

1. 1

   Cut the jwipo

   Cut the dried filefish into strips about 1/2 inch wide and 3 inches long. Do not cut them too thin, because they curl and harden before the batter has time to cook. If the sheets are very stiff, wave them once over a low flame or warm pan for 10 seconds per side, just until flexible, then cut.

2. 2

   Mix the sauce

   Stir together the soy sauce, rice vinegar, maesil-cheong or sugar, scallion, and gochugaru if using. Keep it sharp and light. Jwipo is already seasoned and sweet from drying, so the sauce is there to wake it up, not cover it.

3. 3

   Heat the oil

   Pour the oil into a small heavy pot so it is at least 1 1/2 inches deep. Heat to 350 degrees F. This temperature matters: cooler oil makes the batter heavy, hotter oil browns the outside before the dried fish softens inside.

4. 4

   Make cold batter

   Whisk 1/2 cup flour, potato starch, salt, and baking powder in a bowl. In a second bowl, stir the cold beer, ice-cold water, and egg yolk, then pour into the dry mix and stir only 8 to 10 times. Leave small lumps. A smooth batter means you worked the flour too much, and the coating will fry tough instead of crisp.

   Keep the batter cold until the first strip goes in. Cold liquid hitting hot oil is what gives this snack its light shell.
5. 5

   Dust and dip

   Put the remaining 2 tablespoons flour on a plate. Dust the jwipo strips lightly, shake off the excess, then dip each strip into the batter. The flour helps the thin coating cling to the fish instead of sliding off into the oil.

6. 6

   Fry in batches

   Fry 6 to 8 strips at a time for 60 to 90 seconds, turning once, until pale golden and crisp at the edges. Do not wait for deep brown. Dried filefish has sugar in it, and it goes from good to bitter faster than fresh fish.

7. 7

   Drain and serve

   Lift the strips to a rack, not a paper towel, so the underside stays crisp. Scatter with toasted sesame if you like. Serve at once with the dipping sauce and something cold to drink. Fried jwipo waits badly, and I won't pretend otherwise.

Chef Tips

• •Buy jwipo that smells clean and sweet, not stale or strongly fishy. Good sheets are amber-brown, flexible enough to bend slightly, and not dusty with excess sugar.
• •If you do not cook with beer, replace it with the same amount of ice-cold sparkling water. The flavor will be milder, but the bubbles still help the batter fry light.
• •Use a rack for draining. Paper towels trap moisture under the batter, and this snack loses its good texture quickly.
• •Eat it immediately. Leftovers can be recrisped for 3 to 4 minutes in a 375 degrees F air fryer or toaster oven, but they will not be as delicate as the first fry.

Advance Preparation

• •The dipping sauce can be mixed up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated. Add the scallion the day you serve it so it stays fresh.
• •Cut the jwipo strips a day ahead and keep them in an airtight container at room temperature. Do not mix the batter ahead; it must be cold and freshly stirred.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 90g)