
Chef Zohra
Atay b Chiba (Moroccan Wormwood Tea)
The cold-evening cousin of mint tea: gunpowder green tea brewed with chiba, the bitter winter herb Moroccans use when na'na is scarce and the house needs warming.
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The autumn cart in a glass: ruby pomegranate seeds crushed fresh, strained bright and tart, then served cold before the color has time to dull.
When the pomegranates arrive in autumn, hard-skinned and heavy in the hand, don't walk past them. This juice belongs to that season, when the seeds are ruby, tart, and generous, and the market seller can press one glass while you stand there watching the color run crimson.
The whole thing depends on freshness. Break open the fruit, loosen the seeds gently, then crush or blend only long enough to release the juice. If you grind the pale inner pith too hard, bitterness follows. That is the one rule here: take the juice from the seeds, not punishment from the peel.
Serve it cold, in small glasses, with barely enough water to loosen it if the fruit is very sharp. Sugar is not a command. Taste first. La balance est dans les yeux (the scale is in the eyes), and here it is also on the tongue. Make one glass more than you planned, because a table is a door you leave open.
Pomegranates have grown around Morocco since antiquity, moving through Mediterranean and trans-Saharan trade routes and settling especially well in oasis and mountain regions such as the Souss, Marrakech, and eastern Morocco. Fresh-pressed pomegranate juice as a market drink is a modern street habit built on an old fruit, most visible in autumn when carts and juice stands press it by the glass. Its exact Moroccan starting point is not well dated, and that uncertainty is honest: the fruit is ancient, the cart is newer.
Quantity
4 large
heavy for their size
Quantity
120ml
only if needed to loosen the juice
Quantity
1 to 2 tsp
only if the fruit is very tart
Quantity
as needed
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| ripe pomegranatesheavy for their size | 4 large |
| cold water (optional)only if needed to loosen the juice | 120ml |
| sugar (optional)only if the fruit is very tart | 1 to 2 tsp |
| ice cubes (optional)for serving | as needed |
Cut a shallow circle around the crown of each pomegranate and lift it away, then score the skin from top to bottom along the natural ridges. Pull the fruit apart with your hands over a wide bowl. Work gently, because broken pith brings bitterness where you want brightness.
Turn each section over the bowl and ease out the seeds with your thumbs. Pick away any pale membrane. The seeds should look glossy and full, not dry. If they taste flat or woody, don't force this drink today; the market has given you another answer.
Pulse the seeds in a blender for 5 to 8 seconds, just until they burst and release their crimson juice. Stop before the hard inner bits are ground fine. This is why the drink stays clean and tart instead of harsh.
Pour the crushed seeds through a fine sieve set over a jug, pressing gently to draw out the juice. Don't scrape the sieve too aggressively at the end. The last thick paste is where bitterness hides.
Taste the juice before adding anything. If it is too sharp, stir in a little cold water and only then a small spoon of sugar if needed. Serve at once in small glasses, with ice if the day asks for it. The color should be bright crimson and the taste tart enough to wake the mouth.
1 serving (about 150g)
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