
Chef Lupita
Agua de Alfalfa
Ciudad de México's highland market agua fresca, fresh alfalfa blended with pineapple and lime until bright green, strained clean, and poured cold from the vitrolero.
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Jalisco's cantarito tapatio is blanco tequila, fresh citrus, salt, and grapefruit soda poured over ice in porous clay barro that keeps the drink cold and earthy.
Jalisco, between Guadalajara, Amatitan, and Tequila, is where this drink belongs. The cantarito is not a margarita in a costume. It is a tequila-region cooler built for outdoor tables, roadside stands, and long afternoons when the citrus is cold and the clay cup sweats in your hand.
The vessel matters. Barro is porous, so you soak the clay cup first and chill it properly. That small step gives the drink its earthy coldness, the thing a glass cannot imitate. At the puestos near Amatitan, the women working the citrus do this without ceremony: lime, orange, grapefruit, salt, tequila blanco, ice, toronja soda. Fast, exact, no fuss.
Use 100 percent agave tequila blanco from Jalisco. Use fresh juice, not bottled sour mix. The salt is not decoration. It sharpens the citrus and keeps the tequila clean on the tongue. If you want chile on the rim, use chile piquin with salt, not candy-red powder that tastes like a snack aisle. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
The cantarito is tied to Jalisco's tequila corridor, especially the towns of Amatitan and Tequila, where roadside vendors serve citrus, tequila blanco, and grapefruit soda in small clay vessels. The modern form became common in the 20th century, after bottled toronja soda made the drink easy to serve quickly at stands and outdoor gatherings. Tequila's Denomination of Origin was established in 1974, and the cantarito became one of the most visible casual drinks of that protected agave region.
Quantity
4
Quantity
2
halved, for rubbing the cups and juicing
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for the rim
Quantity
8 ounces
preferably from Jalisco
Quantity
6 ounces
Quantity
4 ounces
Quantity
3 ounces
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
enough to fill the cups
Quantity
16 ounces
preferably Mexican toronja soda such as Squirt or Jarritos Toronja
Quantity
4
for serving
Quantity
4
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| small clay cantarito cups or jarritos de barro | 4 |
| limeshalved, for rubbing the cups and juicing | 2 |
| kosher salt | 2 tablespoons |
| ground chile piquin (optional)for the rim | 1 teaspoon |
| tequila blanco, 100 percent agavepreferably from Jalisco | 8 ounces |
| fresh orange juice | 6 ounces |
| fresh grapefruit juice | 4 ounces |
| fresh lime juice | 3 ounces |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| ice | enough to fill the cups |
| cold grapefruit sodapreferably Mexican toronja soda such as Squirt or Jarritos Toronja | 16 ounces |
| grapefruit wedges (optional)for serving | 4 |
| lime wedges (optional)for serving | 4 |
Submerge the clay cantarito cups in cold water for 10 minutes. Drain them but do not dry them completely. Barro holds a little water in its pores, and that is what helps keep the drink cold. A glass can be pretty. It cannot do this job.
Mix the kosher salt with the chile piquin if using. Rub the rim of each cup with a cut lime, then dip lightly into the salt. Do not bury the rim. You want salt to wake up the citrus, not a mouthful of seasoning.
In a pitcher, combine the tequila blanco, orange juice, grapefruit juice, lime juice, and fine sea salt. Stir until the salt dissolves. Taste it before the soda goes in. It should be bright, tart, and slightly salty. If the oranges are weak, add another squeeze of lime. The market decides the balance, not the recipe card.
Fill each soaked clay cup to the top with ice. Pour the tequila-citrus mixture evenly among the cups, about five ounces per cup. The drink should hit the ice hard and chill immediately.
Top each cup with cold grapefruit soda and stir once, gently, with a long spoon. Do not shake it. You want the bubbles alive. Add a grapefruit wedge and a lime wedge to each cup and serve at once. Asi se hace y punto.
1 serving (about 270g)
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