
Chef Graziella
Bruschetta al Pomodoro Fresco
Grilled bread rubbed with garlic, crowned with ripe tomatoes, anointed with your finest oil. This is bruschetta as it exists in Italy, not the soggy appetizer Americans invented.
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Thin ribbons of summer zucchini, kissed by flame and wrapped around fresh goat cheese brightened with herbs. An antipasto that proves restraint creates elegance.
This is not a recipe that tolerates mediocre zucchini. Those pale, overgrown specimens sold year-round in supermarkets will produce something watery and sad. You need small, firm zucchini, no longer than six inches, with taut skin and no soft spots. Summer zucchini from someone's garden or a proper farmers market. If you cannot find these, wait until you can.
The technique is simple but unforgiving. Slice the zucchini thin enough to roll without breaking, thick enough to hold together on the grill. This takes practice and a steady hand. The slices must cook just until pliable, with beautiful char marks, but not so long that they turn to mush. You are looking for texture that yields but does not collapse.
The filling is where Americans go wrong. They want to add things. Sun-dried tomatoes. Olives. Pine nuts. Roasted peppers. Before you know it, you have a vegetable casserole wrapped in zucchini. No. The filling is fresh goat cheese, soft herbs, a whisper of lemon zest, and nothing more. The zucchini is the star. The cheese supports it. What you keep out is as significant as what you put in.
Involtini, meaning 'little bundles,' appear throughout Italian regional cooking, wrapped in everything from eggplant to beef to cabbage leaves. Zucchini involtini emerged as a lighter, summer variation in the coastal regions where vegetables dominate the antipasto table. The pairing with fresh goat cheese reflects the modern Italian preference for delicate, fresh-tasting starters.
Quantity
4 (about 6 inches each, 1.5 pounds total)
Quantity
3 tablespoons, plus more for drizzling
Quantity
8 ounces
at room temperature
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped fine
Quantity
1 tablespoon
chopped fine
Quantity
1 teaspoon
finely grated
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| small zucchini | 4 (about 6 inches each, 1.5 pounds total) |
| extra virgin olive oil | 3 tablespoons, plus more for drizzling |
| fresh goat cheeseat room temperature | 8 ounces |
| fresh basilchopped fine | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh mintchopped fine | 1 tablespoon |
| lemon zestfinely grated | 1 teaspoon |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
Trim the ends from each zucchini. Using a mandoline or a very sharp knife and steady hand, slice lengthwise into ribbons about one-eighth inch thick. You want slices thin enough to roll but thick enough to survive the grill. Aim for 4 to 5 slices per zucchini. Discard the outer slices that are mostly skin.
Lay the zucchini slices in a single layer on sheet pans. Brush both sides lightly with olive oil and season with salt. Let them rest for 10 minutes. The salt draws out moisture, which helps the zucchini char rather than steam on the grill. Pat dry with paper towels before grilling.
While the zucchini rests, combine the goat cheese, basil, mint, and lemon zest in a bowl. Mash with a fork until smooth and evenly mixed. Season with a pinch of salt and several grinds of black pepper. The cheese should be soft enough to spread easily. If it resists, it is too cold.
Heat a grill pan or outdoor grill over high heat until very hot. You should see a shimmer of heat above the surface. Grill the zucchini slices in batches, about 90 seconds per side, until they show distinct char marks and have become pliable but not soft. Transfer to a clean sheet pan to cool. They must be cool enough to handle before filling.
Place a zucchini ribbon on your work surface. Spread about one tablespoon of the herbed cheese in a thin layer along the length of the ribbon, leaving a half-inch border at each end. Starting from one short end, roll the ribbon into a neat cylinder. The seam should face down. Repeat with remaining ribbons and filling.
Arrange the involtini on a serving plate, seam side down. Drizzle with your best olive oil and finish with freshly cracked pepper. Serve at room temperature. These are finger food, meant to be eaten in one or two bites. They require no utensils, which is correct for antipasti.
1 serving (about 140g)
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