
Chef Juliette
Mayonnaise de Volaille
Cold roast chicken, ciseled lettuce, and a shining coat of homemade mayonnaise, arranged with capers, olives, anchovies, eggs, and lettuce hearts, then tossed at the table as the canon intends.
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The autumn salad of Lombardy, where ripe pears meet creamy Gorgonzola dolce against a bed of bitter greens. Four ingredients in conversation, each one essential.
This is not a salad of excess. It is a salad of precision. The sweetness of ripe pear, the salt and cream of Gorgonzola, the bitter crunch of radicchio, the earthy depth of toasted walnut. Four components. No one flavor dominates. This is what balance means.
The cheese must be Gorgonzola dolce, the younger, milder version. Gorgonzola piccante, aged longer and sharper, overwhelms the pear. Americans often confuse the two, reaching for whatever blue cheese sits in the case. This is a mistake. Dolce melts on the tongue. Piccante fights for attention. We want the cheese to complement, not compete.
Bitter greens are essential. Radicchio from the Veneto, Belgian endive, arugula. These stand up to the richness of the cheese and provide the counterpoint that makes the sweetness of the pear sing. Butter lettuce would collapse under the weight of this combination. We need structure. We need bite.
This salad belongs to the autumn and winter tables of Lombardy and Piedmont, where Gorgonzola has been produced since at least the 9th century in towns near Milan. The combination of pears with blue cheese emerged from the northern Italian tradition of ending meals with fruit and cheese, eventually migrating from the cheese course to the salad plate in elegant restaurants during the 20th century.
Quantity
2 large
Bosc or Bartlett
Quantity
6 ounces
at room temperature
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
6 cups
radicchio, Belgian endive, arugula
Quantity
1 small head
Quantity
4 tablespoons
Quantity
1 1/2 tablespoons
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| ripe but firm pearsBosc or Bartlett | 2 large |
| Gorgonzola dolceat room temperature | 6 ounces |
| walnut halves | 1 cup |
| mixed bitter greensradicchio, Belgian endive, arugula | 6 cups |
| radicchio di Treviso or Chioggia | 1 small head |
| extra virgin olive oil | 4 tablespoons |
| aged balsamic vinegar | 1 1/2 tablespoons |
| flaky sea salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
Place the walnut halves in a dry skillet over medium heat. Shake the pan every thirty seconds. Watch them. They go from toasted to burnt in the time it takes to answer the telephone. When they are fragrant and slightly darkened, about 4 minutes, transfer them immediately to a plate to cool. Let them come to room temperature before using.
Wash and dry the bitter greens thoroughly. Wet leaves refuse to hold dressing and turn the salad into a puddle. Tear the radicchio into bite-sized pieces. If using Belgian endive, slice it crosswise into half-inch rounds, separating the rings. Toss the greens together in a large bowl.
Cut the pears lengthwise into quarters. Remove the cores with a paring knife. Slice each quarter lengthwise into thin wedges, about one-quarter inch thick. The pears should be ripe enough to yield to gentle pressure but firm enough to hold their shape when sliced. A mushy pear has no place in this salad.
Break the Gorgonzola into rough chunks with your fingers. Some pieces the size of hazelnuts, others like small marbles. Uniformity is not the goal. The cheese should be at room temperature, soft enough to crumble but not melting. Cold cheese from the refrigerator will not release its full flavor.
Drizzle the olive oil over the greens. Toss gently with your hands, coating every leaf. Add the balsamic vinegar and a pinch of salt. Toss again. Taste a leaf. It should be lightly dressed, not dripping. You can add more oil and vinegar. You cannot remove what is already there.
Divide the dressed greens among four plates. Arrange the pear slices over and among the leaves. Scatter the Gorgonzola crumbles across each portion. Add the toasted walnuts. Finish with a light grinding of black pepper and, if desired, a final thread of balsamic vinegar drizzled over the pears. Serve immediately.
1 serving (about 270g)
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