
Chef Ally
Apricot Flaugnarde
A golden custard that puffs and billows around halved summer apricots, then settles into something tender and barely sweet, the kind of dessert that reminds you fruit is the point.
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Cloud-light mousse perfumed with Provençal lavender and wildflower honey, layered with buttery shortbread crumbles and peak-season raspberries in individual glasses perfect for summer picnics and porch suppers.
The French have long understood what Americans are only now discovering: lavender belongs in the kitchen as much as the garden. This is not some modern invention. Herbes de Provence has included lavender for generations, and the cooks of southern France have been folding it into creams and custards since before anyone thought to write such things down. What we're making here honors that tradition while embracing the American instinct to make fine food portable.
A mousse should taste like eating a cloud that someone has flavored. The technique isn't difficult, but it demands attention. You'll infuse cream with lavender, strain it, chill it, then whip it into soft peaks that hold their shape without becoming stiff. The honey goes in warm so it incorporates smoothly. Rush this and you'll have sweet scrambled cream. Patience rewards you with something ethereal.
I've served these parfaits at backyard gatherings from Portland to Providence. They travel beautifully in a cooler, and there's something genuinely lovely about handing someone a glass of layered purple and pink and gold as the sun goes down. The shortbread provides crunch against the silk of the mousse. The raspberries offer tartness that keeps the honey from cloying. Each layer has a job. Each layer does it well.
Quantity
2 cups
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1/3 cup
Quantity
8 oz
softened
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1 tablespoon
finely ground
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
10 tablespoons
cold and cubed
Quantity
1
Quantity
2 pints
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
for garnish
Quantity
for garnish
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| heavy cream | 2 cups |
| dried culinary lavender | 2 tablespoons |
| wildflower honey | 1/3 cup |
| mascarpone cheesesoftened | 8 oz |
| vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| all-purpose flour | 1 1/2 cups |
| powdered sugar | 1/2 cup |
| dried culinary lavenderfinely ground | 1 tablespoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| unsalted buttercold and cubed | 10 tablespoons |
| large egg yolk | 1 |
| fresh raspberries | 2 pints |
| honey | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh lemon juice | 1 teaspoon |
| fresh lavender sprigs (optional) | for garnish |
| raspberries (optional) | for garnish |
Pour the heavy cream into a small saucepan and add the 2 tablespoons of lavender. Set over medium-low heat and warm until you see tiny bubbles forming around the edges and wisps of steam rising from the surface. Do not let it boil. Remove from heat immediately, cover, and let steep for 30 minutes. The cream will take on a pale purple-grey tint and smell distinctly floral. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean bowl, pressing on the lavender to extract every bit of flavor. Discard the spent buds. Refrigerate the infused cream until completely cold, at least 2 hours or overnight.
While the cream infuses, prepare your shortbread. Pulse the flour, powdered sugar, ground lavender, and salt in a food processor until combined. Add the cold butter cubes and pulse in short bursts until the mixture resembles coarse sand with some pea-sized pieces remaining. Add the egg yolk and pulse just until the dough begins to clump together. It should hold when pressed but not be wet or sticky. Turn out onto a sheet of plastic wrap, press into a flat disk, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
Preheat your oven to 325°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Roll the chilled dough between two sheets of parchment to about 1/4-inch thickness. Remove the top parchment and slide the bottom sheet with the dough onto your baking sheet. Bake for 18 to 22 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until the edges turn golden and the center looks set but still pale. The shortbread will crisp as it cools. Let it rest on the pan for 10 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Once cooled, break into rough pieces and pulse briefly in a food processor to create uneven crumbles. Some should be powder-fine, others chunky. This texture contrast matters.
In a medium bowl, gently toss 1 1/2 pints of the raspberries with the 2 tablespoons of honey and the lemon juice. Let them macerate at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes. The berries will release their juices and create a ruby-colored syrup. Reserve the remaining half pint of pristine berries for garnish. Do not crush the macerated berries. You want them soft and yielding but still intact.
In a large bowl, beat the softened mascarpone with a hand mixer or stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment until smooth and fluffy, about 1 minute. Warm the 1/3 cup honey in the microwave for 15 seconds, just enough to make it pourable. With the mixer running on low, drizzle in the warm honey, then add the vanilla and salt. Beat until fully incorporated and the mixture is creamy. Scrape down the sides and set aside.
In a separate chilled bowl, whip the cold lavender-infused cream until it holds soft peaks. The cream should billow and fold over gently when you lift the whisk. Stop before it becomes stiff. Overwhipping creates a grainy mousse that weeps liquid. Add about one-third of the whipped cream to the mascarpone mixture and stir vigorously to lighten it. Then add the remaining whipped cream in two additions, folding gently with a rubber spatula. Use sweeping motions from the bottom of the bowl up and over. The finished mousse should be uniformly pale, airy, and hold its shape when mounded.
Gather 8 clear glasses, jars, or parfait cups. Each should hold about 8 ounces. Begin with a layer of shortbread crumbles, about 2 tablespoons pressed gently into the bottom. Spoon a generous dollop of mousse on top, using the back of the spoon to spread it to the edges. Add a layer of macerated raspberries with a little of their syrup. Repeat the layers: more crumbles, more mousse, more berries. Finish with a final swoop of mousse on top. You should have three distinct layers visible through the glass.
Cover each parfait with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 24 hours. The resting time allows the shortbread to soften slightly at the edges while maintaining its center crunch, and lets all the flavors marry. Just before serving, top each parfait with a few reserved fresh raspberries and a small sprig of fresh lavender. The purple against the pink against the cream makes for a presentation worthy of any table, whether that table sits in a dining room or unfolds from a picnic basket.
1 serving (about 95g)
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