Holsteiner Sauerfleisch

Holsteiner Sauerfleisch belongs to Schleswig-Holstein, to the cold table, to make-ahead cooking, and to the north that knows what vinegar and time can do. You cook the pork with bay, onion, pepper, and vinegar, then set it cold in a clear aspic, a Sülze, jelly, firm enough to slice and bright enough to wake up a plate of Bratkartoffeln, fried potatoes.

The regions disagree because they should. In the north, the balance runs söötsuur, sweet-sour, and the meat is served cold with remoulade. In Swabia you find Sulz with more pork rind and sometimes darker seasoning; in Bavaria the Presssack line is closer to sausage than to this clean northern jelly. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders. Das ist kein Bierzelt.

The technique that decides it is the simmer. Keep the pot at a tremble, never a hard boil, because a rolling boil clouds the broth, tightens the pork, and breaks the clean jelly you want later. The rind, bones, and pig's foot give collagen to the liquid, so Weggeworfen wird nichts, nothing gets thrown away. Strain carefully, taste sharply, and test a spoonful cold before you pour. If it doesn't set, you add gelatine and get on with dinner.

I serve it cold, sliced thick, with hot fried potatoes and a spoon of remoulade. The hot potatoes, cold sour pork, and creamy sauce do the work. Schön ist, was schmeckt.