Hiyashi Chūka (冷やし中華, chilled Chinese-style noodles)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large pot
• •Colander
• •Wide mixing bowl for ice water
• •Sharp knife
• •Shallow ramen bowls or wide chilled plates

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the tare

   Whisk the soy sauce, rice vinegar, sugar, cooled dashi, sesame oil, and grated ginger until the sugar dissolves. Taste it now. It should seem a little too sharp and salty by itself, because the cold noodles and vegetables will soften it. Chill the tare while you prepare the rest.

   A cold noodle dish needs a bright sauce. If it tastes perfect in the bowl, it will taste timid once it meets noodles, cucumber, and tomato.
2. 2

   Cook the omelet

   Beat the eggs with the teaspoon of sugar and a pinch of salt, but don't whip them foamy. Cook in a lightly oiled skillet over medium-low heat as a thin sheet, turning once if needed, then cool completely. Thin egg cuts neatly only after it firms, and warm egg would slacken the cold noodles.

3. 3

   Cut the toppings

   Slice the omelet, cucumber, and ham into fine, even strips. Cut the tomatoes into neat wedges. This is not decoration for its own sake. Even cutting makes each bite balanced, and the colors give the dish its summer face: green cucumber, yellow egg, red tomato, pale noodles, and dark tare.

4. 4

   Blanch the sprouts

   Drop the bean sprouts into boiling water for 30 seconds, then rinse under cold water and drain well. The brief blanch takes away the raw edge while keeping the snap. Squeeze them gently so they don't water down the tare.

5. 5

   Boil the noodles

   Bring a large pot of water to a hard boil and cook the ramen noodles according to the package, usually two to three minutes for fresh noodles. Stir as they go in so the strands separate. Taste one strand early. You want them just firm, because the rinse tightens them a little more.

6. 6

   Rinse them cold

   Drain the noodles and rinse under cold running water, rubbing them lightly with your hands until they feel clean and springy. This washes away surface starch and stops the cooking. Then plunge them into ice water for a minute and drain very well. This step decides the dish: warm, starchy noodles turn dull and sticky, but cold rinsed noodles stay lively under the tare.

   Do not be delicate here. Wash the noodles until the water runs clear and the strands feel firm between your fingers.
7. 7

   Arrange and serve

   Mound the drained noodles in shallow bowls. Arrange the cucumber, ham, omelet, tomato, and bean sprouts in separate fans over the top, building a little height and leaving some space so the colors read. Spoon the chilled tare around and over the noodles, scatter sesame seeds, and serve with karashi on the side for anyone who wants its sharp bite.

Chef Tips

• •Use fresh ramen noodles if you can. Dried noodles will do, but fresh noodles have the spring that makes hiyashi chūka feel alive after the cold rinse.
• •Japanese cucumber is best here because it is narrow, crisp, and not watery. If you use a larger cucumber, scrape out the seedy center before cutting, or it will thin the tare.
• •Chill the bowls if the day is very hot. It sounds fussy until you do it once. Cold ware buys you the few extra minutes this dish deserves.
• •For a meatless table, leave out the ham and add blanched asparagus, wakame, or more omelet. If you also avoid egg, use strips of firm tofu pressed dry and seasoned lightly with soy. Say what it is plainly, and it remains an honest summer bowl.

Advance Preparation

• •The tare can be made up to two days ahead and kept refrigerated. Stir before using, since the sesame oil rises.
• •The omelet and toppings can be cut a few hours ahead. Keep them covered and chilled, but cut the tomatoes closer to serving so their faces stay fresh.
• •Cook and rinse the noodles just before serving. They lose their spring if they sit too long after the ice bath.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 380g)