Gerber Sandwich

Some regional foods earn national fame. Others remain fiercely local, beloved by those who grew up with them and bewildering to outsiders. The Gerber belongs to St. Louis the way the cheesesteak belongs to Philadelphia. It emerged from Ruma's Deli in the 1970s, created by a man named Dick Gerber who understood that the best sandwiches are often the simplest.

The foundation is crusty French bread, the kind with a shattering crust and tender interior that St. Louis bakeries have perfected for generations. You split it, slather both halves with garlic butter, layer on good ham, then blanket everything with Provel cheese. Under the broiler, the Provel transforms into something magical: stretchy, gooey, slightly tangy, with edges that crisp and brown.

Provel is the secret. This processed cheese blend of cheddar, Swiss, and provolone was invented in St. Louis in the 1950s and appears on everything from pizza to salads in that city. Its low melting point creates that distinctive pull and stretch. If you can't source Provel, a combination of provolone and white American comes close, though purists will argue otherwise. They're not entirely wrong.