
Chef Isabel
Aguaillo de la Sierra de Cadiz
Aguaillo is from the Sierra de Cadiz: cold water, stale bread, garlic, oil and vinegar, closer to a field drink than a bowl of soup, and sharp enough to wake you in the heat.
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Garbanzos con jamón are Castilian spoon food: chickpeas, serrano ham, pimentón, and a slow sofrito cooked dark enough to make a simple pot taste full.
Garbanzos con jamón a la castellana belong to Castile, where chickpeas and cured pork have fed hard-working tables for a long time. This is not a thick mountain cocido with every meat in the house, and it is not a thin broth with a little ham waved over it. It is chickpeas, jamón, pimentón, and a slow sofrito, the slow onion base that gives the pot its body.
The method that decides it is the sofrito. Cook the onion low until it turns dark gold and sweet, then let the tomato lose its water before the pimentón goes in. Rush that part and the stew tastes thin, no matter how good the ham is. Do it patiently and the chickpeas taste as if they have been cooking with more than they have.
If you're far from Spain, use a good dry-cured ham that is not sweet and not smoked. Prosciutto works better than boiled ham, and a meaty ham bone is a gift if you have one. Canned chickpeas are allowed for a weeknight, claro que sí, but rinse them and simmer them long enough to take the flavor. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Garbanzos con jamón belong to the Castilian habit of cocina de cuchara, spoon food built from legumes, preserved pork, and a little oil rather than abundance. In the inland provinces, cured ham from the household larder gave flavor to chickpeas when a larger cocido was not being made. The dish sits close to the old economy of the matanza, where every cured piece had a job and a small amount of jamón could season a whole pot.
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
150g
cut into small dice
Quantity
1 large
finely chopped
Quantity
1 small
finely diced
Quantity
3 cloves
minced
Quantity
200g grated fresh or 150g canned
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1
Quantity
500g
or 2 x 400g cans, drained and rinsed
Quantity
600ml
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
1 tablespoon
chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| extra virgin olive oil | 2 tablespoons |
| serrano hamcut into small dice | 150g |
| onionfinely chopped | 1 large |
| carrotfinely diced | 1 small |
| garlicminced | 3 cloves |
| ripe tomato or canned crushed tomato | 200g grated fresh or 150g canned |
| sweet pimentón de la Vera | 1 teaspoon |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| cooked chickpeasor 2 x 400g cans, drained and rinsed | 500g |
| low-salt chicken stock or water | 600ml |
| salt | to taste |
| black pepper | to taste |
| flat-leaf parsley (optional)chopped | 1 tablespoon |
Warm the olive oil in a heavy pot over medium heat. Add the diced serrano ham and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, just until its edges darken and the fat shines in the oil. Lift out one spoonful of ham for finishing if you like; leave the rest in the pot.
Add the onion and carrot with a small pinch of salt, remembering the ham is already salty. Lower the heat and cook for 18 to 22 minutes, stirring now and then, until the onion is dark gold, soft, and sweet. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute. This slow cook is where the sweetness comes from; rush it and the pot tastes thinner.
Stir in the grated tomato and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, until it has lost its raw smell and the oil begins to show at the edges. Take the pot off the heat for a moment, stir in the pimentón, then return it to low heat. Pimentón burns quickly and turns bitter, so give it respect, not drama.
Add the chickpeas, bay leaf, and stock or water. Bring to a gentle simmer, then cook uncovered for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the broth turns glossy and lightly thickened. Crush a small ladleful of chickpeas against the side of the pot and stir them back in if you want more body.
Taste before adding salt; the jamón may have done most of the work. Add black pepper, remove the bay leaf, and let the pot rest 10 minutes off the heat so the broth settles around the chickpeas. Serve in shallow bowls with the reserved ham and parsley if using. Bread beside it is not decoration, it has a job.
1 serving (about 380g)
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