Gambas a la Gabardina

Gambas a la gabardina are Madrileñas, from the old bar counter of Madrid: peeled prawns held by the tail, dipped in a light beer batter, and fried until the coat puffs around them like a raincoat. Gabardina means that coat. That's the joke, and also the method.

The one thing that decides them is cold batter meeting hot oil. Keep the beer, egg, and batter cold, and fry at 180C so the outside sets fast while the prawn stays sweet and just cooked. If the oil is tired or cool, you get a greasy blanket. If it is too hot, the coat browns before the prawn is ready. There is no mystery here, only temperature.

If you can't find Spanish gambas, use large raw prawns or shrimp, peeled with the tails left on. Frozen is fine if they were frozen raw and thawed slowly in the fridge; dry them well, because water is the enemy of this batter. Pimentón de la Vera gives the old tavern colour and a little smoke, but use only a spoonful. This is still prawn first.

My margin note for this one is short: fry fewer at a time than you think. A crowded pan punishes everyone. Make them, salt them while they shine, and put them on the table at once. Nadie nace sabiendo, but this one is kind if you respect the oil.